Anyone who has ever had a pet knows that one of the first things a
responsible pet owner does is make sure their pet has a balanced diet.
They know that the healthy their pets eat, the more likely they are to lead long and healthy lives. Fish kept in saltwater fish aquariums are exactly the same.
The responsible saltwater aquarium owner knows exactly what
types of food his fish needs to survive and makes sure they keep a ready supply of it on hand.
The first thing you need to know about feeding tropical fish is how much food they should be getting and what to feed saltwater fish
The general rule of thumb is that when you feed your fish use a stopwatch and time how long it takes them to eat.
It should take approximently two minutes for the fish to finish eating. If the fish in your tank finish their food in less then two minutes they probably aren’t getting enough to eat.
If after two minutes there is still food left over then they are
probably getting over fed and you’ll have to cut back.
A more accurate way of measuring how much food that fifty adult
tropical fish should eat approximately ten grams of food in one
month, but that can carry with variety and growth.
A balanced fish food typically consists of ten percent fat, thirty to
thirty-six percent protein. There should also be amino acids.
The first step in feeding your fish responsibly is knowing what type of food they eat.
Some fish can not be kept in a tank that has coral because they like
to eat the little invertebrates that make the coral their home.
Predatory fish typically need to have frozen or live food. Bottom
dwelling fish should be fed a type of food that is heavy enough to
sink to the bottom of the tank, these fish do not do well with fish foods that float on the tanks surface.
Aquarium owners who are interested in breeding their tropical fish
often feed their fish brine shrimp, which they raise in their own brine shrimp hatchery.
Many saltwater fish aquariums caretakers like using automatic fish food feeders. Automatic fish food feeders are feeders that can be clamped to the side of the aquarium.
Once the fish owner has loaded the hopper with food, the feeder
will automatically dispense the food at regular intervals, this allows
the fish owner to have more flexibility and not be forced to arrange
their schedules around feeding their fish.
The average automatic fish food feeder is not capable of dispensing
frozen or live food, which does make them convenient for predatory fish. Some absentee fish owners place food blocks in their aquariums.
Tropical fish owners should store their extra fish food in a cool dry
place in containers that won’t allow moisture to seep in. Frozen fish food should be disposed of after three months.
One of the dangers in overfeeding fish is that the wasted food can
wreck havoc on the pH levels of your aquariums water.
If to much discarded food is contaminating the water it can contribute to the death of your fish.
What do saltwater fish like to eat?
In a saltwater aquarium, many fish (even carnivores) can be weaned off of their usual fare in the wild and coaxed into taking hand fed foods such as pellets and flakes with their protein requirements being supplemented with frozen foods such as mysid shrimp, fish, squid, or krill.
What is the best food for saltwater fish?
For example, clownfish will often be fed various shrimp and small sea foods, fish flakes and pellets, and seaweed. A balanced diet between meat and herbs will keep omnivores colorful, healthy, and active. Fish pellets and flakes are best for omnivores as they contain both vegetables, algae, and meaty foods.
How many times a day do you feed saltwater fish?
If you only feed your herbivore fish once every 2 or 3 days, it is not the way most fish eat in the wild, which is what we should try to duplicate as closely as possible. In my experience, feeding twice per day, only what is consumed in about 2 minutes has been the best.
Can I feed saltwater fish with freshwater food?
One of the most important aspects of maintaining an aquarium is Saltwater Tropical Fish Feeding. … It’s always a good idea to vary the diet of your fish and to introduce live foods occasionally. Flakes foods, freeze dried shrimp and freeze dried bloodworms can usually be used for either freshwater or saltwater fish.
How long can saltwater fish go without eating?
about two weeks
Beyond that, you’ll definitely want to make some accommodation to have the fish fed—even if just every two or three days. With respect to persuading a finicky new specimen to start eating, which often takes several days, I usually don’t start to get nervous until the fish is approaching about two weeks without food.
What is the best food for clownfish?
Clownfish require a rich diet consisting of meat and a small proportion of plant matter. Sometimes live food should be given to clownfish. That way, the predatory instinct of clownfish is satisfied.
… The diet of a clownfish
Cooked mussels.
White fish.
Squid.
Peeled shrimp.
Cockles.
Octopus.
Chicken livers.
Small crustaceans.
Can you feed bloodworms to saltwater fish?
Tetra BloodWorms Freeze-dried Freshwater & Saltwater Fish Food are rich in protein and make an excellent supplement to flake and staple diets.
How often should I feed clownfish?
Mixing in some frozen foods or even live foods will keep your clownfish happy and healthy for years. It is best to feed at least once per day. However, depending on the size of the tank and the other inhabitants, clownfish will do just fine being fed every other day.
Do saltwater fish eat worms?
However, nightcrawlers and other earthworms can be used for smaller sea fish, like panfish, flounder, sea bass, school-sized stripers, and fluke. In fact, some larger species of earthworms do well in saltwater, as they tolerate near-freezing water.
betta fish care how to care for a betta fish you need to know
betta fish care
betta fish care learn how to grow betta fish and breed them successfully
ORIGINS Southeast Asia, occurring in Thailand, although
its exact range is uncertain.
SIZE 21⁄4 in (6 cm).
DIET Prepared foods and live foods.
WATER Temperature 75–82°F (24–28°C); soft
(50–100 mg/l) and acidic (pH 6.0–6.5).
TEMPERAMENT Males are aggressive toward each other.
Siamese Fighting Fish
Betta splendens
The Siamese Fighting Fish is also referred to as the Betta, particularly in North America.This species was widely kept in Thailand for more than 200 years before it became known in the West in the late 1800s.
In their homeland, where they frequent the canals, or klongs, that flow through many Thai cities,
Siamese Fighting Fish were selectively bred not only for their color but also for their fighting ability, with significant amounts of money being bet on the outcome of contests between the more aggressive males.
Different strains evolved from cross-breeding fish obtained from various parts of Thailand.
As a result, it is now practically impossible to be certain of the original distribution of these fish, or of their natural coloration, even though alleged “wild type” specimens are occasionally offered for sale.
Current thinking is that wild forms were originally dark red, probably with bluish streaking on their fins and a pair of vertical lines on the side of the head behind the eyes.
Certainly, the wild ancestors of today’s Siamese Fighting Fish had simpler fins than those seen in modern strains.
It is likely that interest in keeping these fish for fighting purposes began not in Thailand, but in neighboring Cambodia (Kampuchea).
In fact, the Thai name for these fish is pla kat khmer, which translates as “fin-biter in Khmer” (Khmer is a former name of Cambodia). Since being introduced to the West,
however, breeders have concentrated on establishing a wide range of color forms, ranging from white through yellow to purple.
Selective breeding has also been used to modify the fins, which are always more elaborate in the males.
With the exception of the female Half-Moon Betta, pictured below left, all the specimens shown here are male.
In Thailand, it is traditional to house Siamese Fighting Fish in small jars, but these provide little swimming space and make it difficult to maintain the water quality.
The natural grace and elegance of the fish will be more apparent in an aquarium.
A single male can be kept in a tank with several females, or even as part of a community aquarium.
However, avoid mixing these fish with fin-nipping species, which will attack the flowing fins, or with fish of a similar coloration, which may themselves be attacked by the Siamese Fighting Fish.
These fish are easy to care for, but they are not especially long-lived, with an average lifespan of about two years. Pairs of seven or eight months old are best for breeding
.They need a relatively shallow spawning tank, about 8 in (20 cm) deep.
It must be covered and include floating plants, among which the male will build a bubble-nest.
Thai breeders often add the leaves of the Ketapang or Indian almond tree (Terminalia catappa) to assist with the conditioning of the water.
These leaves are available in the West through specialist suppliers.
Raising the water temperature can trigger spawning, as can increasing the amount of livefood in the diet.
Check that the female is in breeding condition, because otherwise, the male may harass her.
Aside from her slightly swollen belly, one of the surest indicators of the female’s readiness to spawn is when she develops yellowish stripes on her body.
She will actively seek out the male at this stage, rather than trying to avoid him
breeding betta fish
These are the videos below of the step by step process in breeding betta fish
Step 1. place the male and female betta fish container near each other for them to see each other and be acquainted and feed them plenty of live foods like mosquito larvae, brine shrimp or daphnia.
observe if the male will build a bubble nest and look for the female egg spot by looking its vent there is a whitish color in the ventral area of the female that is an egg that is an indicator that the female is full of eggs and ready to spawn
Part 2 in breeding betta fish Video
Part 3 in breeding betta fish
It is the responsibility of the male Siamese Fighting Fish to construct a bubble-nest. Spawning occurs nearby, with the pair wrapping around one another.
The female will then float upside down, as though stunned, while the male collects the 15 or so eggs in its mouth and carries them to the bubble-nest.
Mating resumes once he has gathered all the eggs.
This sequence is repeated until some 500 eggs have been produced, with the entire process lasting about two hours. It is the best to remove the female while the male guards the nest, otherwise he may attack her.
If the tank is very large and well planted, however, it may be safe for her to stay put. Hatching occurs 48 hours after mating, and the young fry is free-swimming within a further four days.
Rear them on fry foods at first, and gently circulate the water with an airstone to convey food particles to them.
Powdered flake and brine shrimp can be provided as they grow.A large number of fry means that gentle filtration is needed to maintain water quality, and partial water changes are required every three days.
Once the males in the brood can be identified, usually, at about two months of age, they should be moved to individual accommodation to prevent fighting.
Prior to this, keep the aquarium covered to keep the young fish from becoming chilled, since this will impair the development of their labyrinth organs
betta fish names
My collection of betta Videos
Orange buttefrly crowntail betta
Dumbo ears juvy betta
How do you know if your betta fish is happy?
The signs of a happy, healthy, and relaxed betta include:
Strong, vibrant colors.
Fins are held open, but not taut, allowing their fins to billow and fold in the water.
Feeds readily.
Active, smooth swimming movements.
On the other hand, a stressed or sick betta may show the following signs:
Faded, muted color.
How do you make a betta fish happy?
The aquarium can be either glass or acrylic.
Plants can be either live or plastic.
Use waste-absorbing gravel.
Don’t forget a heater — bettas like to stay warm.
Betta food and treats (bloodworms are a nice treat)
Water and fish treatments.
Do betta fish recognize their owners?
Betta are quite intelligent as fish go, and they can even be trained to recognize their owners and do tricks.
They require stimulation and space to live well, and, as you might suspect, a tiny plastic cup doesn’t provide that.
Do betta fish get lonely?
It’s not that bettas have poor manners, but rather that they simply do not like nor need the company of other fish.
Their lack of friends does not cause them to become bored, but you may include certain species in the same tank as your betta. … Although they’re not fish, snails generally work well together with bettas.
How long can a betta fish live in a fishbowl?
Some Bettas may live for a year or more but on an average a Betta will live only for about 100 days in a bowl.
They need at least a 5 gallon tank. Please read the book Betta Bible. However if water changes are meticulous-50% every week and they are given sufficient stimulation, they can live longer.
Some people who keep aquariums do think that making a sand bed
for the aquarium is a bit of a nuisance and in fact also harmful for the fish.
These sands would not do well for your live plants in the aquarium too, and would be difficult to maintain.
Because sand contains fine particles, people do prefer using gravel
instead as it is easier to clean and take care of.
But the truth of the matter is that a sand bed in an aquarium can be very beneficial. First and foremost, sand provides fish with a more natural habitat, since that is what is actually present in the beds of their seas and oceans. You will find your fish happier in the sand and even spawning in them, which could be a delight to watch. Sand is not very difficult to clean too, if one does it in the right way. In fact, using sand in an aquarium makes it look more real and the fish enjoy is more than a gravel bed.
Live sand is especially beneficial to the organisms in your tank. Live sand is biological sand. It is pre-seeded with certain microscopic organisms such as bacteria and algae. These organisms help to clean the water in the tank and also produce the chemicals that are present in natural habitat. Live sand can be very expensive, such as live aragonite sand, but it is a very good option to have at the bottom of your tank, since it will not require maintenance. Not only does live sand clean itself due to the organisms present in it, but it will also contribute a major share in the internal cleaning of your tank.
There are many different types of sands available that can make good choices to your aquarium. The following is a list of some of the sand types that are used:-
Aragonite sand – Aragonite sand is the most expensive variety of sand available, and so it will not be a good choice for larger aquariums. However it helps in the buffering of the water and is fantastic for keeping the tank at an optimal chemical condition.
Silica sand – Silica sand is common beach sand, and it is very cheaply available. It is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, SiO2, which is a natural ingredient in sand. The plus points of this sand are that it is smooth and sifts easily. It is very easy to clean during setup and maintenance, and it is available very cheaply.
Coral sand – As the name suggests, coral sand is suitable for tanks that have corals as their inhabitants. Since corals can change internal levels of the tank, such as the nitrate levels and the pH values, drastically, it is wise to use this sand. Coral sand has a natural buffering action that can maintain the chemical composition of tank water at optimal values.
Black beauty– Though this is not actually sand, it is sold as such. Black beauty is actually solidified and powdered iron slag. It adds a contrast to the tank and is good for aesthetic reasons. But the sand particles are sharp, so do not use this sand if you have fish that sift too much on the bed.
Cleaning of sand is a very important process and must be done in the right way. These are the steps you must follow while cleaning sand:-
Take about two gallons of the sand in a capacious bucket.
With the help of a pipe, run water on the sand till half the bucket is full.
Then drain out the supernatant water. This will contain many floating dust particles.
Put water again, and this time, sift through the sand.
Again pour out the water.
Continue this process till the water you pour out is quite clear.
Thus, it is very easy to clean the sand in the tank, and that should not be a problem in deciding to use it as a bed product for your aquarium. Sand does add quite a bit of grace and naturalness to the tank, and fishes find it closer to their own natural surroundings.
What type of substrate is best for aquarium plants?
Best Substrates for Planted Tanks Reviewed
ADA Aquasoil Amazonia. ADA Aquasoil is an excellent option if you want to keep many different plants. …
Seachem Flourite. …
CaribSea Eco-Complete. …
Mr Aqua Aquarium Soil Substrate. …
Hermit Habitat Terrarium Substrate.
Do you need substrate for aquarium plants?
You also have to provide substrate at the proper depth for your aquarium plants. … Plants that don’t need sand but attach their roots to rocks or wood such as Anubias, Microsorium, and Bolbitis.
Is sand a good substrate for aquariums?
Sand as a substrate has many advantages over gravel. Sand is more natural, easier to clean, and looks much better. Sand is Much More Natural than Gravel: … Most will have a substrate of sand, some even silt or mud (which we can’t have in an aquarium).
How much substrate do I need for my aquarium?
You need to use the tank’s dimensions and size to determine the exact amount. For example, a tank of 55 gallons that is 49 by 12 inches will need around 30 pounds of gravel for a 1 inch bed. After you have figured this out, you can then multiply the depth in inches by the amount of gravel you calculated for 1 inch.
Is sand or gravel better for planted aquarium?
Gravel is the better choice for most freshwater aquariums. … Gravel also comes in a variety of colors so you can customize your tank and make it complement your fish. The Case for Sand Substrate. Sand doesn’t allow water to flow through it as well as gravel does
Can you plant aquarium plants in gravel?
Sand and gravel substrates are fine for fish-only tanks but a planted tank will require a complete substrate that provides nutrients. … If you have soil substrate, most plants are likely to do well but you should keep in mind that it may cloud the water in your tank if you disturb it to root your plants.
What is the best substrate for a planted tank?
Best Substrate for Planted Tanks
CaribSea Eco-Complete.
ADA Aqua Soil Amazonia.
Fluval Plant & Shrimp Stratum.
Seachem Fluorite.
UP Aqua Sand for Aquatic Plants.
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how to breed guppy fish guide steps by steps to follow
how to breed guppy fish Breeding Guppies Is Easy And Here You Will Find All The Information You Will Need Breeding Guppies Couldn’t be easier, it really is a good fish to start with.
Sexual Characteristics
Female guppy fish
THE GRAVID SPOT
Breeders of popular livebearers have relied on the appearance of the dark gravid spot to indicate that a female is about to give birth.
This spot is formed by the dark lining of the abdomen, known as the peritoneum, which bulges against the sides of the female’s body just before she gives birth, pushed out by the increasing size of her brood.
The gravid spot is less apparent in swordtails, simply because the female’s abdominal wall is more muscular.
Once the gravid spot has appeared, the female should not be moved, otherwise she is likely to abort her brood.
what does guppies gravid spot look like just before birth
When it does darken, this will prove that your guppy is pregnant. It may be orange or dark in the beginning, but through the pregnancy it can change between these two.
You can tell that your guppy is very close to having the babies when you can see little dots (the baby guppies’ eyes) in the gravid spot.
pregnant guppy fish
How long is a guppy fish pregnant?
Gestation may last from 21 to 30 days, although 22 to 26 days is average for most guppy pregnancies.
A warmer tank – between 72 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit – is best for gestation and will keep the female from being pregnant too long.
How can you tell if a guppy is pregnant?
When it does darken, this will prove that your guppy is pregnant. It may be orange or dark in the beginning, but through the pregnancy it can change between these two.
You can tell that your guppy is very close to having the babies when you can see little dots (the baby guppies’ eyes) in the gravid spot.
less colorful fins and body
round body
gravid spot
Male guppy fish:
more colorful fins and body
well-developed, long fins
gonopodium
how to breed guppy fish Breeding Culture Method
A. Materials needed:
Breeding tank I used trapal pond madeup of bamboo frame for this
Breeding cage
Rearing/grow-out tank
Aerator, basin, pail, scoop net, hose
B. Breeding procedure:
Prepare breeding tank and fill up with water (at least 30 cm)12 inches or 1 ft deep
Select good and sexually matured guppy fish breeders.
Set breeders in a breeding cage inside the breeding tank.
Stocking density in the breeding cage is 100 pcs/sqm. Sex ratio is 1:4 (1 male guppy fish : 4 female guppy fish)
C. Grow-out culture:
Collect guppy fry using a soft and fine-meshed scoop net and transfer to a rearing tank. Stocking density is 100 pcs fry/sqm.
Cover the canvass tank to prevent predation by insects, birds, frogs, and cats.
Feed the guppy fry with natural or commercial fish food feeds 3-4 times daily until marketable size.
Change the water once a week at 20-33% exchange rate. Siphon fecal matter and uneaten feeds daily.
After 2 months, separate male guppy fish from female guppy fish.
Select good quality fishes. Cull out undesirable fishes (dull colored, rotten fins, deformed).
Market size of 5 cm length is attained after 4-5 months. Select good quality and marketable fishes.
Condition and quarantine marketable fishes in a conditioning tank 3-5 days prior to transport. Provide flow-through water and feed minimally during the conditioning period.
Pack the fishes in oxygenated bags. Transport the fishes early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Disease Treatment
Use commercially available treatment chemicals.
For white spot disease/”ich” – 5 drops anti-itch (malachite green)/gal
For Anchor worm – 5 drops anti-anchor worm (trichlorfon)/gal
For bacterial infection – 5 ppm oxytetracycline or tetracycline HCL
For fungus – 5 drops methylene blue/gal
Procedure
Add 1 teaspoon salt/gal water
Permanent (24 hrs) bath
Change water everyday
For 5-7 consecutive days
Note: During treatment, provide vigorous aeration and avoid feeding.
Cost and Returns (25 sqm area, in Php based on 2010 prices)
a. Variable Cost – P7,337.00
Breeder (160 female, 40 male) – 2,000.00
Feeds (breeder and fry) – 388.00
Electricity and water – 1,200.00
Medicines – 1,000.00
Labor – 2,400.00
Miscellaneous – 349.00
b. Fixed Cost – P7,402.50
Depreciation cost of materials (investment of P23,490) – 5,178.00
Repairs and maintenance – 1,000.00
Miscellaneous – 1,224.50
c. Gross Revenue – 47,760.00
Sales (597 fishes/mo x 8 mos = 4,776 @ P10/pc)
d. Total Cost (A+B) – 14,739.50
e. Net Revenue Profit (C-D) – 33,020.50
f. Return of Investment (ROI) – 107.1%
g. Payback Period – 0.93 year
Do guppies breed fast?
A female guppy under optimal conditions can give birth every 30 days — and each batch of fry can range from 20 to 50 baby guppies.
This combination of maturing rapidly, birthing live young and almost constant reproduction means guppies reproduce very rapidly.
Will guppies breed on their own?
How Do Guppies Breed? Guppies are livebearers, which means that their babies are born live, not from eggs like many other types of fish, including goldfish.
Guppies breed rather freely, so you can quickly go from a single pair or a trio to dozens of pet guppies if you choose to keep males and females together.
How long do guppies stay pregnant?
22 to 26 days
Gestation may last from 21 to 30 days, although 22 to 26 days is average for most guppy pregnancies.
A warmer tank – between 72 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit – is best for gestation and will keep the female from being pregnant too long.
How long does it take for guppies to give birth?
When a guppy gives birth, the females will “drop” 2 to 200 baby guppies, called fry, typically in four to six hours.
If she is stressed, however, the process to give birth to all the fry can take up to 12 hours.
How can you tell if guppies are mating?
To tell if your female guppies are pregnant, look for dark spots on the females’ abdomens.
Then, once you see these dark spots, wait 26-31 days for them to give birth. When the babies, or fry, are born, move the adult fish out of the tank so you can raise the fry on their own.
pregnant guppy fish giving birth
Guppies are highly prolific livebearers giving birth to between five and 30 fry, though under extreme circumstances, she may give birth to only one or two or over 100.
The gestation period of a guppy is typically 21–30 days, but can vary considerably.
pregnant guppy fish stages
Pregnant Guppy Stages and Gestation … period and the best way to care for a pregnant guppy, fish hobbyists can enjoy raising these fish for years to come.
how to breed guppy fish pregnant guppy fish behavior
This is one of the most common behavioral characteristics of a guppy that is about to go into labor.
Your pregnant guppy will look like it is swimming, while remaining in the same spot in the tank. A guppy in labor may also try to hide from view or display certain aggressive behaviors like fin nipping.
how do guppy fish mate
Image result for how do guppy fish mate
The gonopodium contains a tube that actually delivers packets of sperm to the female. Guppy mating takes less than a second, and it looks just like he is stinging her at her vent where her gravid spot is located. This is the dark spot just behind the female’s abdomen.
How do you tell if your guppies are mating?
To tell if your female guppies are pregnant, look for dark spots on the females’ abdomens. Then, once you see these dark spots, wait 26-31 days for them to give birth. When the babies, or fry, are born, move the adult fish out of the tank so you can raise the fry on their own.
Can guppy fish change gender?
Most of the livebearers can change sex if required. Swordtails, platties, mollies, guppies. Females changing to males although I havent seen males change to females. A fertilised female can retain milt for a few generations too so you dont necessarily need males in your tank to have babies
How often do guppies breed?
Number of Offspring. Once a female guppy is 2 or 3 months old, she tends to start giving birth. A female guppy under optimal conditions can give birth every 30 days — and each batch of fry can range from 20 to 50 baby guppies.
do guppy fish lay eggs
pregnant guppy fish behavior
guppy fish giving birth
how to breed kohaku koi guppies
Keeping and breeding moscows (and in generally moscow blue) has been going on in an “on … Albino koi guppy (Kohaku) .
The albino koi guppy which I’m keeping and breeding concerns a kohako version (bicolor) and is blonde based.
If you are considering buying an aquarium full of fish or if you
already own one, then you cannot afford to stop there.
Just like any other pets, fish in aquariums require a lot of care and attention.
You cannot just throw fish into an aquarium and expect them to survive and thrive.
You must purchase the proper aquarium supplies for your fish.
I’m pretty passionate about this subject because owning a pet
supplies store I have seen far too many people choose to own fish
because “they are easier and require less than other pets.”
While this is true on many levels, it is no excuse for people to not
buy the proper kinds of aquarium supplies for their pets.
If you are unsure of what kinds of aquarium supplies you might
need for the fish you have purchased or are hoping to purchase, then look no further than to a pet supply store for help.
Go to a store near you and talk to someone that is knowledgable about aquarium supplies. like aquarium supplies at walmart
Ask all of your questions and allow them to lead to aquarium
supplies that are reasonable and necessary for the livelihood of your fish.
Make sure that you have a full understanding of the needs of your fish before you purchase them.
You need to realize that fish take work just like any other pet and
that something will be required of you in taking care of them.
If you aren’t quite ready to visit a pet supply store, then go to your
local library and find some resources on starting an aquarium and
filling it with the right aquarium supplies.
There are many great resources out there, you just need to find them and learn what you can.
You can also benefit greatly in learning about the proper aquarium
supplies by doing an internet search based on the kinds of fish you have or are thinking of purchasing.
When it comes time to actually purchase aquarium supplies, you’ll
want to make your way back to the pet supplies store.
No where else will you find as great of help from people who really know what they are talking about.
So get to your local petshop and find all the aquarium supplies you need.
And don’t worry, most aquarium supplies come in a wide variety of
price ranges, so don’t feel obligated to run off and buy the most expensive ones.
Instead, go for what fits your budget.
Having fish can be a great and fun thing. Just be sure to fill your aquarium with the right supplies and your fish will live long and stay happy.
What supplies do I need for a fish tank?
10 Essential Pet Supplies for Your Fish Tank
Filtration system.
This is possibly the most important of pet supplies.
Air pump. Aeration through air pumps is essential to the proper functioning of
a fish tank.
Test kit.
Salt water mix.
Water heater.
Live rock.
Lighting.
Plants.
What is the best online aquarium store?
Where are the best places online to shop for freshwater aquarium supplies?
Pet Smart. Check them out here: http://www.petsmart.com.
Champion Lighting & Supply. Check them out here: http://www.championlighting.com/home.php.
Live Aquaria.
Kens Fish.
That Pet Place.
Pet Solutions.
Amazon.
Do you need a heater for a fish tank?
Heaters. If you are keeping tropical fish, you will need a heater. A heater ensures that a tank doesn’t get too cool, and that the temperature stays steady during the course of the day, even when the room cools off (e.g., at night). For many tropical fish, a temperature of 78F is ideal.
Can I put my fish in the tank right away?
Most pet stores put fish in a clear plastic bag filled with water. Try to get him home right away as he will need to be introduced to the tank soon after being placed in the plastic bag.
This will reduce his levels of stress and help him acclimate faster to the tank water.
Having a saltwater aquarium can be fun and rewarding or can be
upsetting if a person lacks knowledge on the proper and right ways
of taking care of fish especially in the saltwater aquarium.
Setting up one requires some equipment to be used for the success of your saltwater aquarium.
Filters and air pump are some of the most important facilities.
Some decorations can be added such as sand and gravels, which
sometimes varies in different colors.
You can also include plastic or real plants, castle or miniatures ship
and other fancy decorations in the aquarium, but just be very careful that it won’t clutter inside.
Light is also essential in saltwater aquarium for the enhancement of
the color of the aquarium and especially the fishes survival.
Saltwater aquarium requires three types of filtration. One is the
Biological filtration, which involves the removal of the bacteria,
which is often created by the fish on its activities, and processes that it undergoes inside the tank.
Second, the chemical filtration that is more on the removing of the
discoloration and chemicals on the water that harms the fish inside the tank.
Third, is the mechanical filtration, which deals more with the
removal of the visible materials floating on the aquarium such as
uneaten fish foods, wastes of the fishes and other squanders
floating or at the bottom of the saltwater aquarium, and this job is commonly done by the net.
There are many considerations regarding the proper ways in
keeping the fish alive in a saltwater aquarium, unlike freshwater
aquariums; saltwater aquarium is more difficult to set up.
One very good example is mixing saltwater. We must remember
that water evaporates while the salt is left, which means that the
salinity of the water on the tank always varies, which can cause
harm especially on the fishes inside the aquarium.
A hydrometer may help you track the salinity of the water and add
some salt to get the right salinity content of the water.
Beginners can set up their saltwater aquarium depending on what they like.
You can just put fish only in the aquarium, or fish with full reef
ambience, or whatever design you want, as long as it you make sure
that the fish inside the aquarium would be able to survive.
Experienced aquarists and experts say that we must always find the
perfect place for the aquarium in the house.
If the location of your saltwater aquarium is always struck by
sunlight, it may result to changes on the temperature of the water
on the tank and would produce more algae due to the sun and its UV rays, which may harm your fish inside the aquarium.
18 Best Saltwater Aquarium Fish for Beginners
Tangs. One of the things that make Tangs a great choice for beginners is that they’re hardy and resilient as well as extremely beautiful. …
Watchman Goby. The watchman goby is one of the best picks for beginners. …
Chalk Bass. …
Damselfish. …
Dottyback. …
Clownfish. …
Firefish. …
Coral Beauties.
Are saltwater tanks hard to maintain?
You will need to perform regular water changes and tank cleans, in addition to running a protein skimmer.
Providing you keep on top of your maintenance, algae won’t be a problem for saltwater aquariums.
However, it is true that saltwater aquariums do tend to grow more algae than freshwater aquariums.
What is the best saltwater tank setup?
The best saltwater aquariums you can buy
1/5. The best saltwater aquarium overall. Fluval. …
2/5. The best mini reef tank. Fluval. …
3/5. The best nano reef tank. Coralife. …
4/5. The best saltwater tank under 50 gallons. Innovative Marine Nuvo/Business Insider. …
5/5. The best saltwater tank with more than 50 gallons. SC Aquarium.
Which is easier freshwater or saltwater aquarium?
Freshwater inhabitants tend to be much hardier and generally less expensive than saltwater aquarium inhabitants. … And they are a bit more precarious to maintain than their freshwater counterparts. They generally require additional equipment, additional work during water changes and also require special lighting.
Are clown fish good for beginners?
Photo from Wikipedia
On the positive side, Clownfish are ideal beginner fish, since they are easy-to-care-for, hardy, and don’t require a huge aquarium to survive happily.
Because wild clownfish always stay in or near anemones in a reef environment, they require very little space. They readily eat most fresh, frozen, and dried foods.
How much does it cost to maintain a saltwater aquarium?
The costs for setting up a habitat vary based on your tank size, the type of fish you want, and the overall appearance of your saltwater aquarium. Not including materials, the setup fee cost can range between $300 and $500 on average.
How small can a saltwater tank be?
The smallest tank for beginners should be no less than 20 gallons, with 55 gallons being even better. For someone versed in fish keeping (i.e., converting from fresh to saltwater), a 10 or 15 gallon tank will work, but is not suggested. In general, fish like long, wide tanks.
Do you need a special tank for saltwater fish?
Saltwater Fish Tanks. You can use any fish tank for your saltwater setup, it doesn’t have to be special in any way or designated for saltwater use. You can also use a freshwater filter for your saltwater aquarium, no changes needed there. … Instead, your saltwater tank should use sand, aragonite, or crushed corals.
How many fish can be in a saltwater tank?
This rule has many variations, but the most common version holds that you should stock 1 inch per 2-5 gallons of water. This means a 30-gallon tank could hold 6 to 15 1-inch fish, or 2 to 4 3-inch fish.
Best LED Aquarium Lighting for Corals, Reef Tanks Reviews
Wattshine 140W-180W LED Coral Light. …
MicMol LED Aquarium Light for Saltwater Coral Reef Fish Marine Tank. …
Phlizon 165W Dimmable Full Spectrum Aquarium LED Reef Decoration Light. …
Marineland Reef LED Strip Light. …
Current USA Fixture Orbit Marine Pro LED Light.
Checklist of Items Needed to Start a Saltwater Aquarium
Aquarium/Tank. …
Lighting. …
Skimmers, Filters & Filtration Equipment. …
Powerhead. …
Live Rock & Substrate. …
Sea Salt Mix/Saltwater & Hydrometer. …
Heater & Thermometer. …
Air Pump & Air Stones.
Following on from our introduction to saltwater aquariums this
segment is designed to give you some idea of a typical saltwater aquarium setup.
The type of saltwater aquarium setup you choose depends on a few factors. For example, the kinds of species you want to stock, the space you have available, and your budget.
In general you will want to buy the biggest saltwater aquarium
setup you can afford that will fit nicely into your living environment.
This is so that your fish and other animals can have the most comfort possible as they grow.
The fish and other invertebrates that you choose to stock your tank
with need enough space to swim and grow in and enough oxygen to survive.
When you choose a saltwater aquarium setup remember that these
two factors are determined mainly by the size of the tank.
So let’s talk about the oxygen component of a saltwater aquarium setup.
The amount of oxygen in the water is related to the tanks surface area.
This means the amount of area on the tank’s surface that is exposed to the air.
The greater the surface area of your saltwater aquarium setup, the
more room there is for exchange of oxygen to happen at the surface.
The more oxygen that is allowed to enter the tank and the more
harmful gases like carbon dioxide are allowed to leave the healthier
your saltwater aquarium setup will be.
The oxygen content of the water is also influenced by its temperature.
In general, the warmer the water, the lower the oxygen content will be.
Most marine species from the tropics like water that is 75 degrees or
higher so this means that less oxygen is going to be available to them.
This is when it becomes important to increase the surface of the
tank by making sure your saltwater aquarium setup is as large as possible.
How do you do this? There is no typical saltwater aquarium setup. Marine tanks come in a variety of shapes and size, but it is the
shape of the tank, not its volume that influences surface area.
This means that even where two tanks have identical volumes they
might not have the same surface area depending on their shape.
A saltwater aquarium setup that is tall and slender won’t get a good rate of gas exchange.
An ideal design would be one that is short and wide.
Once you’ve chosen your tank its time to start thinking about its residents. Of course the size of your tank is going to dictate how many fish and invertebrates it can house.
The main thing to avoid in your saltwater aquarium setup is overcrowding.
Too many inhabitants and your tank’s filtration system will be overloaded.
Fish living in cramped conditions become stressed and this can lead to illness and death.
You can calculate how many fish your saltwater aquarium setup will
hold by stocking one inch of fish per four gallons of water for a period of six months.
After this period increase the number of fish slowly to one inch per two gallons.
This means that a 40 gallon aquarium should not contain more than 10 inches of fish for the first six months.
So, for example, you might choose one 3-inch queen angel, two 1-
inch clownfish, one 2-inch regal tang, one 1-inch bicolor blenny and two 1-inch Beau Gregory’s.
Once the six month period is over you could increase the total
number of inches in your saltwater aquarium setup to 20.
Of course, your fish are going to grow so you have to adjust for the changing sizes of your fish.
The shape of your fish is also important. If your fish are likely to be
on the heavy side you will need to stick to the low end of the capacity of your saltwater aquarium setup.
A saltwater aquarium setup will cost you time and money so accept this and don’t skimp. Even if you devote considerable time and effort to a small tank you can still encounter problems.
If you choose the wrong one initially you will probably end up
having to buy another one and this may be discouraging.
In short, if you don’t have the money to buy a tank that’s at least 30 gallons, don’t invest any money at all.
When you choose a saltwater aquarium setup there are many options.
You can choose from glass and acrylic and you can even get reef-
ready styles complete with pre-drilled holes for equipment and plumbing.
Glass tanks sealed with silicon rubber cement are a common choice.
Rectangle designs are popular but they are also found in octagon and hexagon. They are non-toxic and don’t scratch easily.
The downside to a glass saltwater aquarium setup is that they are heavy.
This means that large tanks will have very thick glass. Try to find one with a plastic frame that will make the tank more stable.
Plated glass is shatterproof but not as strong as tempered.
An acrylic saltwater aquarium setup is molded with few seams so
they are more transparent.
However your view may still be distorted at the corners. Acrylic tanks are not as heavy as glass and so come in a wider variety of shapes and sizes.
Acrylic is also stronger than glass. On the downside acrylic tanks can get scratched and are more expensive than glass.
They are easily scratched by algae scrapers and decorations. It is possible to buff these marks out with a special kit.
Whichever saltwater aquarium setup you choose make sure it
provides a healthy environment for your fish.
You also need to make sure that you can afford to maintain it
properly and that it suits your lifestyle and available time.
Once you have everything set up correctly you will be able to enjoy
the colorful antics and shapes of your fishy friends, corals and other invertebrates.
Lighting considerations
Lighting the marine aquarium is both an art and a science.
In an ideal setup, the light should appear natural, and should
enhance the colors and forms of the tank occupants, but it must
also be of the correct intensity and quality to sustain life.
Achieving this balance requires some planning, especially in reef tanks.
The marine fishkeeper is presented with an apparently bewildering
variety of lighting alternatives; choosing the right one depends
largely on the types of marine organism housed in the aquarium.
Most fish are tolerant of a wide range of lighting conditions, so for a
fish-only setup it is usually enough to provide lighting that displays
the fish most effectively.
Light levels should not, however, be set too low, or the growth of
undesirable red/brown algae will be encouraged.
Lighting a reef tank is a very different matter. Many invertebrates
in reef aquariums, such as corals and anemones, only survive
because they form partnerships with tiny photosynthetic algae that
live inside their bodies (see box, below).
If the algae do not receive sufficient light, they die,
along with their hosts. In their natural setting—shallow reefs in
tropical seas—these organisms are exposed to bright light from the
sun for eight to ten hours per day, and these conditions must be
replicated with artificial lighting if they are to survive in a tank.
Using sunlight to illuminate the aquarium is not a viable option. Instead, special tubes and bulbs, usually mounted in a specially
made hood, are used to simulate both the intensity and the quality of light falling on a reef.
A natural coral reef has many different zones of light. Colored
corals predominate in the sunlight zone.
Deeper down, leather corals, anemones, tubeworms, and others
are more prevalent.
Darker areas are occupied by soft corals, sponges, and invertebrates that lack zooxanthellae.
LIGHT AND INVERTEBRATES
Certain invertebrates, such as various sea anemones, corals, and
some mollusks, contain photosynthetic algae called zooxanthellae in their fleshy bodies.
This is a symbiotic relationship in which the algae supply their host
invertebrate with food and oxygen, and in return receive shelter
and take up some by-products of the animals.
When a sea anemone (bottom left) opens its tentacles, the
maximum amount of light reaches its algal partners; the tiny
greenish bodies of the zooxanthellae are visible in the close-up of a
coral polyp (below right).
However, not all invertebrates in a marine tank thrive under high
light levels, and there should be suitable retreats in an aquarium if it is to house crabs and sponges.
A reef tank changes in appearance between day (left)
and night (right). When lit, corals and anemones open; in
the dark, they close up and fish may appear duller in color
The algae within corals and anemones need light at the blue
end of the visible spectrum (see box, right) to photosynthesize.
For this reason, marine aquarists tend to light their tanks with
fluorescent actinic tubes that strongly emit blue wavelengths.
Often, a more neutral daylight-simulating tube is used alongside
the actinic tube to replicate the viewing conditions under sunlight
and eliminate any bluish cast.
Regular domestic (tungsten or halogen) bulbs are not suitable,
because the light quality is inappropriate, and because they
generate excessive heat, which tends to increase water temperature and cause evaporation.
Fluorescent tubes are available in a range of lengths to suit almost any size of tank.
They have a long life-span (up to two years) and specialized tubes
are designed to deliver a consistent high output throughout their life.
In the case of marine invertebrate set-ups, however, powerful metal
halide bulbs may be the best option, but must incorporate an
ultraviolet filter for safety.
Mercury vapor lights are another possibility, but are costly and run
very hot, so need to be carefully mounted in order to disperse the heat produced.
SPECTRAL OUTPUT OF LIGHTS
Natural daylight is made up of a mixture of wavelengths (colors
of light)—literally all the colors of the rainbow.
However, most fluorescent tubes and light bulbs emit light at some
wavelengths in preference to others.
In the marine aquarium, it is vital to select lighting that supplies the
wavelengths of light that are needed by plants and by symbiotic algae.
If you are in any doubt, consult your aquarium dealer.
Sunlight contains more or less equal proportions of all wavelengths of light.
As it passes through water, red and yellow components are filtered
out, which is why reefs appear to be bathed in blue light.
To set up a reef aquarium, it is essential to duplicate these lighting
conditions using bulbs or fluorescent tubes (below).
Siting and substrate
There are no firm rules about where to position a marine aquarium
in the home, but following a few simple guidelines will help
maximize the health of the fish, and ensure human safety.
The choice of substrate (such as gravel or sand) greatly influences
the overall appearance of the tank, and is more than just cosmetic.
Substrate composition directly affects water chemistry, and so
influences the long-term welfare of the fish.
Siting and substrate Place the tank on sponge matting Wash out the tank to remove dust or glass spicules.
Glass aquariums need to be rested on special sponge matting to
absorb any unevenness in the surface beneath.
Fit the undergravel filter Lay the corrugated plastic of the filter
plate, with uplift tube attached, on the base of the tank.
The plate can be cut to size, and should cover the whole base area.
Positioning the tank
Aquariums should never be moved if they contain water, sand,
or gravel because their great weight makes them prone to
shattering.
The larger the tank, the longer it takes to empty and strip down for
moving; so for marine aquariums, which tend to be larger than
their freshwater counterparts, getting the location right the first time is particularly important.
As a general rule, set up the tank in the room where you spend
most time, and position it at eye level for the best views of the
fish.
Taller tanks provide eye-level interest whether seated or standing,
and are a good choice for compact rooms where there is only space for a tank with a small base.
Support the aquarium on a specially built stand or cabinet; if you
use an existing piece of furniture, make sure it is strong enough
to take the weight of the filled tank and will not be damaged
by spillages.
Allow enough space around the tank for routine saltwater aquarium maintenance—you
should be able to reach all inner and outer
surfaces of the glass without stretching.
Marine aquariums may be used architecturally, built into walls, or set up as room dividers.
They should not, however, be sited in rooms where cigarette smoke
can build up, because this can diffuse into the water and harm fish and invertebrates.
FILTER AND SUBSTRATE
Most marine aquariums are equipped with an undergravel filter, in
addition to a power filter .
The filter medium is the substrate itself—typically, crushed coral or
shell, covered with finer coral sand—which becomes colonized by beneficial aerobic bacteria.
A mesh net separates the two layers, thus maintaining the flow of water through the filter bed.
Always buy prepared substrate from a reputable aquarium dealer,
and check it thoroughly for foreign bodies, such as fragments of
plastic, metal, and glass, before placing it in the tank.
1.)Place the tank on sponge matting Wash out the tank to remove dust or glass spicules.
Glass aquariums need to be rested on special sponge matting to
absorb any unevenness in the surface beneath.
2.)Fit the undergravel filter Lay the corrugated plastic of the filter
plate, with uplift tube attached, on the base of the tank.
3.) Add coarse substrate Place a layer of calcareous substrate— washed in aquarium disinfectant and well rinsed—onto the filter plate to a depth of about 2 in (5 cm), and spread it out evenly
4.) Fit the gravel mesh Lay the mesh net over the coarse substrate layer, turning the edges down.This will prevent the sand from sinking and filling in the spaces between the coarser grains.
5.) Cover with coral sand Pour fine coral sand onto the mesh to a depth of about 1 in (2.5 cm). Shape the sand layer to the desired form, typically sloping it forward toward the front of the tank.
The plate can be cut to size, and should cover the whole base area.
Avoid placing the aquarium where it will be exposed to direct
sunlight, because you will then lose control over the light
intensity and temperature in the tank.
Water and electricity don’t mix, so it is essential to keep cabling
short and neat; avoid using messy extensions and always consult a
professional electrician if you have any doubts about your system.
Never plug pumps or filters into switched outlets—it is
all too easy inadvertently to flip the wrong wall switch and
shut off the tank’s life support systems.
SITING TIPS
Keep the tank clear of heaters, air conditioning units, and windows. Sudden changes in temperature can be lethal to fish.
Be prepared to rearrange the room décor to display the tank to best effect.
Consider how easy it will be to service the tank.
Place the tank on a completely level surface.
Acrylic admits about 15 percent more light than glass of
comparable thickness, and it can be shaped into more unusual
forms with rounded corners.
Acrylic tanks are preferred by some marine aquarists.
They are lighter and easier to handle than glass, and holes may be
drilled through them to conceal inlet and outlet pipes.
However, they do scratch more readily than conventional glass
tanks, and are more expensive
Substrate matters
The substrate in a marine aquarium is not just for decoration.
Some fish, such as jawfish , like to burrow, so the sand or gravel used must be of a suitable texture.
The substrate is also important in maintaining water chemistry;
thanks to its calcium carbonate content, it acts as a buffer,
helping to counter the progressive acidification of the water. And, when an undergravel filter is used, the substrate also serves as a filter bed.
In this case, the size and depth of the substrate particles is key; the
substrate needs to be deep enough to be effective as a filter, and water must be able to pass between the particles.
Usually, the filter plate is covered with a layer of coarse material
(see below), such as crushed coral, shell, or dolomite chips (all of which are high in calcium carbonate).
Coral sand or aragonite sand is then laid on top of this to create a more natural appearance.
DECORATIVE BACKDROPS
A tank’s inlet and outlet tubes are rather unsightly, but are easily
hidden behind a backdrop, stuck to the outside rear of the tank.
Commercially available backdrops made from fade-resistant,
waterproof plastics feature all sorts of images, from reef scenes,
which create a good illusion of depth, to tropical beaches and
even lunar landscapes.
How much does it cost to set up a saltwater aquarium?
The costs for setting up a habitat vary based on your tank size, the type of fish you want, and the overall appearance of your saltwater aquarium. Not including materials, the setup fee cost can range between $300 and $500 on average.
What is needed to start a saltwater tank?
Checklist of Items Needed to Start a Saltwater Aquarium
Aquarium/Tank. …
Lighting. …
Skimmers, Filters & Filtration Equipment. …
Powerhead. …
Live Rock & Substrate. …
Sea Salt Mix/Saltwater & Hydrometer. …
Heater & Thermometer. …
Air Pump & Air Stones.
Can any tank be a saltwater tank?
The aquariums themselves are not specifically designed for use as either a freshwater or saltwater tank. Therefore, you can use the same tank if you want to change the system type. However, freshwater aquatic creatures cannot live in saltwater set up.
Are saltwater aquariums hard to maintain?
You will need to perform regular water changes and tank cleans, in addition to running a protein skimmer. Providing you keep on top of your maintenance, algae won’t be a problem for saltwater aquariums. However, it is true that saltwater aquariums do tend to grow more algae than freshwater aquariums
Is it expensive to maintain a saltwater aquarium?
Saltwater aquarium in particular can be more expensive. And they are a bit more precarious to maintain than their freshwater counterparts. They generally require additional equipment, additional work during water changes and also require special lighting.
As with people fish thrive when kept in an environment as close to their own as possible.
For this reason aquariums should be carefully structured to imitate
the natural environments of the species it is home to as closely as possible.
Even if it is not possible to duplicate exactly the living conditions
found in the deep blue the fish will benefit from the effort.
Fish are also very adaptable creatures. It is what allows them to live
and thrive in captivity when many other marine animals are unable to make the change.
The fish will adapt to the environment around them and learn to live in the conditions of their tank.
It is important that these conditions remain as constant as possible. As in nature a tip in the balance of the elements in an aquarium can bring with it devastating consequences.
It is important that changes in the aquarium environment be few and far between.
This is generally a very simple matter until the time comes for the water in the tank to be changed.
In nature the water in the ocean is constantly cycling; therefore,
the water never has the opportunity to become stale and
overloaded with elements that will have a negative impact on the
well being of your aquatic friends.
Since this is not the case in an aquarium even with an excellent
artificial filtering system and organic filtering methods combined it
will still be necessary on occasion to manually clean the tank.
The water with which you replace the dirty water in the aquarium
should be as close as possible to the water that was originally filling the tank.
What this means is that if you opted to buy a pre-made saltwater
mix when you started your tank you should continue to use that same pre-made saltwater mix.
If you made your own saltwater you should use the same type of
sea salt in the same proportions that you used in the beginning.
If you opted to transplant ocean water or purchased filtered ocean
water you are going to want to use that same type of water when you make the change.
Water in aquariums should be changed every couple of months,
more if you happen to notice that wastes are beginning to build up.
This will be evident by the hazy look the previously clear water will
take on and the obvious accumulation of waste at the bottom of the tank.
Be sure when you change the water you also clean the components of the tank and the inside of the glass itself.
Putting clean water into an empty tank is along the same lines as
putting clean clothes on a dirty body-there is little point.
By keeping your tank clean and the conditions as constant as
possible you are giving your fish the best possible chance to thrive
in their artificial environment, guaranteeing that you will be able to
enjoy their beauty for a very long time.
Types of filtration
Filtration is needed to rid the tank of toxic wastes, undesirable
particles, and other dissolved chemicals.
There are many different designs of filters, and their mode of
action may be biological, mechanical, or chemical, or a combination of these.
Biological filters remove nitrite and ammonia from the water
FILTRATION CHOICES
Two or more filters are often used in the same tank to maximize
water quality and cut ammonia and nitrite, which reef fish cannot tolerate.
Biological filters, such as undergravel and trickle designs (right), are
often teamed with external power filters, which pump water
through an external canister containing filter media such as sponge,
filter wool, or activated carbon.
The filtered water is then sprayed back into the tank through the
fine holes of a spray bar—a process that helps oxygenate the water.
Some aquariums feature ozonizers— units that produce bubbles of
ozone gas to oxidize waste matter—or protein skimmers (below),
which use yet another method to remove potentially harmful organic waste.
saltwater aquarium protein skimmer
A protein skimmer or foam fractionator is a device used to remove
organic compounds such as municipal water treatment facilities and public aquariums.
Smaller protein skimmers are also used for filtration of home saltwater aquariums
The protein skimmer works in a different way from conventional filters.
A stream of electrically charged air bubbles rises through a plastic
tube; proteins and other organic wastes stick to the bubbles and
rise to the surface, where they form a thick foam.
This must be regularly collected for disposal, preferably twice a week.
In an undergravel filter, a colony of beneficial bacteria establishes
itself in the substrate.
As water is drawn down through the filter bed, the bacteria break down organic waste produced by the fish.
trickle filter saltwater aquarium
The trickle filter provides sophisticated biological and mechanical filtration.
Water is drawn up from the tank and sprayed over a stack of
different filter media, through which it trickles before flowing back into the aquarium.
Spraying also oxygenates the water, improving bacterial action within the filter.
for bacteria that convert these natural waste products into harmless compounds.
Mechanical filters remove particles by forcing water through some kind of filter cartridge.
Some of these cartridges contain filter media that trap particles as
small as 3 microns across and can be used periodically to scrub the water of bacteria and algal blooms.
Chemical filters remove dissolved substances from the water, such
as ozone, chlorine, heavy metals, and medications.
Most work by forcing the water through a filter medium of
activated carbon (a manufactured form of bcarbon that is highly porous).
Chemical filters are useful for eliminating the yellow coloring
that often develops in aquarium water.
WATER STERILIZATION
uv sterilizer for saltwater aquarium
Ultraviolet (UV) light is a powerful sterilizing agent, capable of
killing bacteria, parasites, and even tough algal spores.
Some aquarists use sterilizing units that pass water from the filter
over a UV lamp before returning it to the tank.
There is some evidence that use of these lamps reduces the incidence of disease.
CHANGING THE WATER
Partial water changes not only reduce harmful accumulations of
nitrate, phosphate, and other chemicals by dilution, but also
replenish levels of carbonate (reinforcing the buffering capacity)
and trace elements, which are vital to the well-being of the tank occupants.
When setting up the aquarium, make an inconspicuous mark on
the side of the tank with a felt-tip pen to show the water level
when the tank is full.
This makes it easier to fill up the tank with the correct amount
of water, both when making partial water changes and when replacing evaporated water.
1.)Check the salinity and temperature A conductivity meter gives readings in millisiemens per centimeter (mS/cm).
At 77°F (25°C), 50.1 mS/cm corresponds to an SG reading on a hydrometer of 1.023.
2.)Drain the water and clean the gravel Fix a gravel cleaner to the siphon and suck up mulm from the substrate while draining the water.
This will prevent the undergravel filter from becoming clogged with waste.
3.) Add more water Replace the drained water with a fresh, dechlorinated salt solution of the correct temperature and salinity.
Test the water for toxic copper before adding it to the tank.
4.)Clean out the protein skimmer Carefully remove the accumulated debris from the cup.
Then rinse the cup with warm, dechlorinated water to remove fat deposits, which make the skimmer less efficient.
CHECKING SALINITY
The correct salinity, in terms of specific gravity (SG), will be in the
range of SG 1.020–1.025, depending on the speciesin your tank.
Salinity can be tested with a hydrometer or a conductivity meter,
which determines the water’s salt content from its ability to conduct electricity.
With a hydrometer, you may need to adjust the reading to take
account of the water temperature: cold water is denser than warm
water, so it gives a slightly lower SG reading.
The instructions provided with the hydrometer should
enable you to make the right adjustments.
TESTING THE WATER
Tank samples can be tested with reagents to monitor a range of
water parameters, including pH and levels of chemicals such as
iron, nitrate, phosphate, carbonate, calcium, strontium, iodine, and copper.
Read the instructions on the kits carefully, store them
appropriately, and use them before they are out of date; otherwise,
they will give inaccurate readings that may endanger the health of
both fish and invertebrates.
Electronic meters give more accurate results for many of these
parameters, but they are far more expensive.
Test kits use reagents that cause the water sample to change color. The sample is then compared to a color chart that gives the numerical figure.
The practice of keeping aquariums came about in the late 1800’s. They were fairly crude.
Usually these ancient aquariums only had one side that was made
of glass, with the other three sides being made of metal or wood.
Most aquariums consisted of fish that were native to the region of
its owner simply because of availability.
Also most old school fish tanks contained only fresh water fish. The reason being
The practice of keeping aquariums came about in the late 1800’s. They were fairly crude.
Usually these ancient aquariums only had one side that was made
of glass, with the other three sides being made of metal or wood.
Most aquariums consisted of fish that were native to the region of
its owner simply because of availability.
Also most old school fish tanks contained only fresh water fish.
The reason being that salt water would corrode the metal frame
that held the aquarium together.
Aquariums drastically changed in the 1960’s with the invention of silicone adhesive.
Metal frames became obsolete and more people started to keep
salt water fish and invertebrates.
More recently glass tanks have become less frequently used due to
the flexibility of acrylic.
Literally flexibility! Acrylic aquariums are far more for forgiving than there glass counterparts.
If a heavy object strikes a glass tank, it will almost certainly break. The flexibility of an acrylic tank will prevent this catastrophe from happening.
In addition, acrylic offers more flexibility in design than glass.
Acrylic aquariums have been made into everything from coffee
tables to gum ball machines.
That being said, there is a short downfall to owning an acrylic aquarium.
They do scratch more easily than glass. When cleaning your
aquarium, be careful not to use paper towels, and harsh or abrasive
chemicals, as they can scratch the acrylic surface of the aquarium.
Always use a cleaner specifically labeled safe for acrylic. Use plastic or rubber scrubbers, rather than metal to clean the sides of an acrylic tank.
Be careful not to accidentally pick up a piece of substrate or gravel while cleaning the inside of the tank. However, if you do happen to scratch an acrylic aquarium, all is not lost.
The tank can be repaired, unlike glass. There are acrylic repair kits
available at specialty pet stores, your local hardware store and of course online.
When purchasing an acrylic aquarium kit, there will be many
different options to choose from, at many different price points.
Aquarium kits can be purchased at places such as specialty aquatic
pet stores, from huge retail chains, or again online.
A fish lover can choose from small cylinder shaped tanks that can
double as a coffee table lamp to wall huge wall sized aquariums.
While, there are some basic things that will be included in most
kits, such as, a filter, some substrate or coral and sometimes
lighting, the kits themselves can vary greatly.
It really doesn’t matter where you buy your starter kit, but keep in
mind that it is extremely important to buy your fish from a reputable dealer.
Don’t buy fish that are hovering near the surface, or that are located in a tank with other dead fish.
Fish diseases are extremely communicable. Be weary of a fish dealer that refuses to catch a specific fish out of the tank for you. After all this is going to be your fish and you have a right to choose.
here are some ways on how to clean acrylic aquarium
how to remove scratches from acrylic aquarium
Empty the tank of fish and water.
Sand in one direction only with 120 or 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper for deep grooves, 320 grit for scratches that can be felt with a fingernail, 1800 or 400 grit for fine scratches, 2400 or 3200 for light scuff marks, or 4000 or 6000 grit for very fine scratches.
how to clean acrylic aquarium without scratching
Use plastic scraper as mentioned before. I also would be very careful with acrylic specific magnet scrubbers, one piece of sand in between the magnets is all it takes to get a scratch.
The Magic Erasers are amazing and I’ve switched to using them in all my freshwater and saltwater tanks, either acrylic or glass. It does an amazing job and doesn’t cost very much. They last quite awhile and you can even slice them into smaller, thinner pieces to stretch it out longer. You usually have to slice them up to get a good hold on the magnet if used that way anyways. Depends on the strength of your magnet. I just use my hands and manually scrub in my nano tanks.
how to repair cracked acrylic aquarium
Aquarium cracks, chips or leaks happen more often to glass aquariums rather than acrylic aquariums. Acrylic aquariums are often advertised as lightweight and crack and leak resistant. They cost more than glass aquariums as they offer benefits that glass aquariums can’t offer. Acrylic aquariums have more clarity than glass, are lightweight and are stronger. If you do experience a leak or crack in an acrylic aquarium, there are ways it can be fixed.
Choose which type of acrylic glue you need. There are two different kinds of acrylic glue, one being a thin liquid glue and the other a thick glue. A popular brand for acrylic tank repair is WeldOn. You can find this at a pet store and at some hardware stores.
Empty your tank of all fish, water and gravel so that is is completely empty. Move the tank outside so you can use a water hose to remove any sand, gravel or buildup that remains in your tank so it can be as clean as possible.
Use a towel to dry your tank thoroughly and allow it to air dry so all seams and areas can dry completely. Bring the tank back inside and prepare an area to work in. Protect your table by covering it with newspaper or plastic.
Blow dirt or dust off the window.
Use clear water to clean lightly soiled acrylic.
Use a non-abrasive cleaner on dirtier windows.
Blot the surface dry.
Remove scratches using car wax.
Scrape the surface.
Sand the surface.
Can you use vinegar to clean a fish tank?
Vinegar is excellent for removing hard water stains, and salt will clean out a tank nicely. Use lots of salt, don’t be shy, and scrub it around there vigorously. Rinse very thoroughly and there you have it, a clean tank
Can you use baking soda to clean a fish tank?
Baking soda works two ways to clean an aquarium. If you soak a dirty aquarium with a baking soda solution, it will break down dirt and greasy substances clinging to the surfaces. On a damp sponge, baking soda is abrasive enough to remove grime and stubborn algae clinging to glass but is gentle enough not to scratch.
indian almond leaf locally known here in my place as “Talisay leaf” is commonly used as betta fish breeding stimulant by local betta fish breeders but the breeders here did not really know what are the reason and properties that the indian almond leaf has that can stimulate the betta fish to breed.
They used it also to treat sick betta fish and groom betta fish coloration but not knowing the background of the indian almond leaf ingredients that has the antifungal or antibacterial properties.
Let’s dive into what are the benefits of Indian almond leaf that can give your betta fish
can stimulate the betta fish to breed because of its tannin. The Indian almond leaf tannin can change the water chemistry of your breeding tank turning it similar to the betta fish natural habitat in the wild and for this reason, the betta fish will be triggered to breed.
can be used as betta fish conditioner for battle preparation and helps cure the wound after battle
can be used as water conditioner for newly bought betta fish this will help the newly betta fish adjust faster to its new home.
can also be used as betta fry food when added to the betta fry tanks since it can introduce an infusoria culter
also can be used as a color enhancer to betta fish
indian almond leaf extract for betta fish
If you’re an Betta fish keeper, you are a fan of using Indian almond leaves (also known as Catappa leaves). for your Betta
These leaves of the Terminalia catappa tree are especially popular in the betta and shrimp hobby as a natural medicine and water conditioner.
It can be used as a combat fungus and bacterial problems like finrot, and prevent stress by mimicking the natural habitat.
But how, when and why should you use them?
What are Indian almond leaves?
As mentioned before, Indian almond leaves are the leaves of the Terminalia catappa tree, which grows in large parts of Asia.
The leaves are usually harvested by simply picking them off the ground. After drying them, they are ready for use in the aquarium.
You can import Indian almond leaves directly, but nowadays they are also available in some pet-/aquarium stores and online!
What do Indian almond leaves do?
When placed in an aquarium, Indian almond leaves slowly start to decompose.
While this happens they turn the water a yellow or brown color by releasing tannins.
These tannins lower the pH and are said to have antifungal and antibacterial properties, which comes in very handy when you have a fish suffering from finrot or when you’re raising vulnerable fry.
The dark color of the water is considered unsightly by some aquarists, but it actually mimics the natural habitat of many fish species! This definitely makes it something to consider embracing.
Based on my personal experience I will testify that adding Indian Almond leaves in your betta tank will make your betta fish healthier and spawn faster.
Evenly newly bought betta fish when you add Indian Almond leaves to its tank it can recover immediately from transportation stress and even shown spawning behavior immediately by building bubble nest immediately.
I personally testify it.
If I missed something about talisay leaf other uses please feel free to leave it in the comment section below or to my youtube video your comment and suggestion is highly appreciated.
What are Indian almond leaves used for?
Indian Almond Leaves are commonly used for conditioning and care of Bettas. …
Simply adding Indian Almond Leaves to your aquarium will release compounds from the leaves which alter the chemistry of the water,
making the aquarium more similar to the habitat from which the fish hails.
What is the common name of Terminalia Catappa?
Terminalia catappa is a large tropical tree in the leadwood tree family, Combretaceae, that grows mainly in the tropical regions of Asia, Africa, and Australia.
It is known by the English common names country-almond, Indian-almond, Malabar-almond, sea-almond, tropical-almond and false kamani.
Using Indian almond leaves in aquariums
Indian almond leaves (IAL) have traditionally been used by Betta (Siamese Fighting Fish) breeders in South East Asia to mimic the natural Betta habitat.
They are believed to aid the fish in a number of ways, such as helping fighting fish heal after a battle and inducing spawning in breeding tanks.
Unfortunately, the affect of Indian almond leaves on aquarium fish has not been scientifically studied yet so it is difficult to separate the truth from the myth.
I can only speak from personal experience and my own good track record using Indian almond leaves, and base my conclusions on reports gathered from other fish keepers.
Why do aquarists use Indian almond leaves? The poor man’s water conditioner
Indian almond leaves are often described as ”the poor man’s water conditioner” due to their capacity of altering the water chemistry in an aquarium.
In the wild, fish evolve to fit into their particular habitat and having to live in another type of environment in captivity is often difficult for them.
Even if your fish manages to survive in less than ideal conditions, there is a great difference between thriving and merely staying alive.
If your fish hails from a habitat where leaves and other plant debris regularly falls into the water and decompose, your fish will be used to that kind of environment and trying to mimic it in the aquariums is strongly recommended.
Leaves that fall into the water release a myriad of different compounds, from trace minerals to dyes, and animals living in the water adapt to having all these different compounds readily available.
When we place fish in our “clean” and rather unnatural aquariums, we in avertedly deprive them of access to a long row of different compounds present in their native habitat.
If your fish hails from the type of environment described above, Indian almond leaves are one way of making life in captivity a little more natural for your pet.
Just like driftwood and peat, Indian almond leaves release ample amounts of tannins into the water. The tannins affect the pH-value (how much will depend on the buffer capacity of your water) and you will also see how the water turns dark – just like a blackwater river.
Needless to say, water rich in tannins is appreciated by fish species that hail from such environments in the wild. So called blackwater habitats are formed when rivers flow slowly through heavily forested areas where falling leaves and other plant debris end up decomposing in the water.
You can find more detailed information about the chemistry of Indian almond leaves in on the Indian almond leaves chemistry page. That page also includes a section on blackwater habitats.
N.B! Using almond leaves will give the water in your aquarium a yellow to reddish tea-coloured shade. Exactly how dark the water gets depends on the concentration of tannins in the water.
Some aquarists dislike this tint which they find unsightly, but try to keep in mind that for fish hailing from blackwater habitats this dark water is actually the normal state of things and the crispy “clean” 100% transparent water without any hint of colour favoured by many aquarists is quite unnatural for them.
Is it true that Indian almond leaves prevent and cure diseases in aquariums?
Indian almond leaves are rich in compounds produces by the tree to protect itself against bacteria, fungi and similar organisms.
Because of this, it has been speculated that adding Indian almond leaves to an aquarium will decrease the risk of disease in the tank or even help fish. As far as I know, no one has yet carried out any scientific study to verify this claim.
Compounds found in Indian almond leaves have however been researched for their potential health benefits for the human body.
Quercetin, a type of flavonoid found in Indian almond leaves, is for instance considered anti-inflammatory and has antioxidant properties1 , while several other flavonoids present in these leaves – such as kaempferol – decrease the risk of developing certain types of cancer.[2 ][3 ]
Fish kept in an environment that mimic its natural habitat tend to grow stronger and heartier, i.e. more apt at fending off malicious microorganisms.
As an aquarists, it is therefore difficult to determine if Indian almond leaves actually cures and prevent disease by killing of bacteria and fungi, or if it is simply a question of the leaves boosting the fish’s own immune system by providing it with an ideal water quality when it comes to pH-value, tannins, etc.
Natural hiding spots and infusoria supply
Using Indian almond leaves is not just about chemistry. You may think leaf litter looks ugly, but for a long row of fishes it feels just like home. Leaves and leaf litter makes the environment more natural.
Bottom dwelling fish love to hide among sunken leaves, while surface and mid-water dwellers like the sense of security offered by floating leaves.
Indian almond leaves are also nice for fish and invertebrates to nibble on between meals, and the leaves serve as home and food for infusoria.
Can Indian almond leaves be used to change the sex ratio of Betta fish?
A lot of rumors circulate about South-East Asian Betta breeders using Indian almond leaves to increase the male-to-female ratio in the batches. Personally, I’ve noticed no difference in sex ratio when using Indian almond leaves.
When do aquarists use Indian almond leaves?
Indian almond leave
Indian Almonf leaf
What fish will like Indian almond leaves and what won’t?
Indian almond leaves are ideal for fish that hails from environments where the water is rich in leaf debris. A few examples of such fishes are bettas and other gouramis, blackwater tetras, discus, rasboras and many dwarf cichlids. You need to research your particular species to see if it hails from this type of water.
Indian almond leaves are not recommended for fish that like hard and alkaline water, such as African cichlids from the Great Rift Valley lakes.
Examples of situations when Indian almond leaves are commonly used
Some aquarists use Indian leaves all the time, while others use them only for special purposes, i.e. when the feel that their fish needs some extra pampering. It is especially common to use IAL…
When setting up a new aquarium
When a new fish is introduced to an aquarium
To induce breeding, especially in Bettas
When setting up and maintaining a fry aquarium
When a fish is sick, especially if the sickness affects the skin
In the plastic transport bag when a fish is moved to a new home
When keeping delicate fish species that are considered difficult to keep and breed in captivity
If you use Indian almond leaves all the time, remember that you may have to “wean” your fish off them if you plan on selling your fish to an aquarist that won’t use Indian almond leaves. A fish that has been raised among Indian almond leaves or spent a long time in an IAL-tank may not handle a rapid move to a different environment well.
How do aquarists use Indian almond leaves?
Preparations
Keep your Indian almond leaves in a dry place at room temperature until you wish to use them. Dry leaves can be stored for at least 6 months in a suitable environment (preferably a container that is airtight, watertight and prevents light from entering).
If the tree may have been sprayed with pesticides or grows in a big city with lots of pollution, rinse the Indian almond leaves well in tap water before placing it in your tank.
Do not use Indian almond leaves that are mouldy.
Remove active carbon, purigen and similar from the aquarium before adding your Indian almond leaves.
If you’re in a hurry, you can cut the leaves into smaller pieces since this will make them leach their content into the water more rapidly.
Dosage
Dosages below are based on 15-25 cm (6-10 in) leaves. If your leaf is smaller or bigger, you need to adjust the figures accordingly.
Using 2 leaves per 50 L (13 us gallons) of water is a good rule of thumb, but be prepared to adjust the dosage to suit your particular fish. Some Betta keepers routinely use up to 2 leaves per 15 L (4 us gallons) of water in their everyday tanks.
Betta breeders normally use 1 leaf per 20 L (5 us gallons) of water in breeding tanks.
In fry rearing tanks, use 1 leaf per 40 L (10 us gallons) of water.
For how long?
Unless you anchor the leaves using a rock or similar, they will normally float for 2-3 days before sinking. Sinking is natural and it doesn’t mean that your have to change the leaves.
The leaves will normally disintegrate after a month or two, depending on how actively your fish tries to destroy them.
Aquarists that dislike the sight of torn leaves normally replace the leaves every 2-3 week, but this is purely for aesthetical reasons.
There is usually no need to change the leaves more often than every second month.
Indian almond leaves in fry tanks
In a fry tank, Indian almond leaves are beneficial in several different ways. In addition to all the positive effects described above, the leaves serve as home and food for infusoria; minute aquatic creatures like ciliates, euglenoids, and protozoa.
Due to its size and nutritional content, infusoria is an excellent food source for newly hatched fry from a long row of species.
In addition to this, many species of fry are naturally inclined to hide among leaves and leaf litter and will feel safer and less stressed in a fry tank that isn’t completely barren.
Indian almond leaf for hospital tank
Instead of routinely adding Indian almond leaves to the aquarium, some aquarists prefer to set up a separate IAL-tank and let their fish spend some time in it when the fish seem to be a bit under the weather, e.g. due to skin abrasions.
This is not a quick fix – you should be prepared to let your fish stay in the hospital tank for at least 2-3 weeks. (Having a separate hospital tank will also prevent spreading of infectious disease and keep other more healthy fish in the main aquarium from taking advantage of a weakened tank mate.)
As always, the hospital tank must naturally be very similar to the ordinary aquarium when it comes to temperature etc, otherwise your will shock your fish.
Traditional conditioning for Siamese Fighting fish
According to professional breeders of Siamese Fighting fish in South East Asia, Indian almond leaves will harden and coat the skin of the fish, thus making it more apt for fighting.
The idea is that Siamese fighers living without Indian almond leaves have softer skin and scales that aren’t smooth and slippery enough to handle being bitten by other fighters.
The fish is therefore conditioned using Indian almond leaves for at least seven days prior to a fight. A clay pot is filled with clean, aged water, the leaves are added, and the fish will live in the pot and be fed live food once a day.
The pot is placed in a dark and quite place to help the fish prepare.
After a fight, a similar treatment is given to help the fish recover from its injuries.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it true that Indian almond leaves remove heavy metals from the aquarium?
I come across this claim now and then, but I have seen no explanation for exactly how it would work or any scientific studies regarding IAL and heavy metals.
Bogwood is commonly used among aquarists to reduce the toxicity of metals; perhaps decaying leaf matter works in a similar way.
When organic matter (i.e. not just Indian almond leaves) are turned into humus by bacteria and fungi, toxic substances such as heavy metals can be chelated, i.e. bound to the complex organic molecules of humus.
This can prevent the metals from entering the wider ecosystem, but will not remove them. For us aquarists, it means that the heavy metals will still be present in our tanks – only bonded to humus.
I have never used copper based medication in an aquarium together with Indian almond leaves so I can’t tell if the leaves decrease the effectiveness of the medicine or not.
Can I use Indian almond leaves in my planted tank?
Yes, Indian almond leaves can safely be used in planted aquariums. Of course, plants that like alkaline waters won’t appreciate the drop in pH-value, but why would you keep such plants with acidic loving fish in the first place?
Can I combine Indian almond leaves with activated carbon or purigen?
Activated carbon, purigen and similar will decrease the effect of Indian almond leaves and should therefore be removed from the aquarium prior to IAL use.
Is there any way of getting rid of the colour?
If you for some reason wish to get the tannins out of the water, you can use activated carbon or simply do a lot of water changes. Just remember that the positive properties of the Indian almond leaf will vanish as well.
Alternatives to using whole leaves
Indian almond leaves in a tea bag
If you hate the look of Indian almond leaves in your aquarium, there are vendors that sell IAL tea bags to soak in the water. Of course, using teabags will not give your fish any leaf litter to hide among or nibble on.
Making your own Indian almond leaf concentrate
Another alternative for those who dislike having leaves in the tank is to boil the leaves and make a concentrated Indian almond tea to pour directly into the aquarium water. Simply place the leaves in a pot filled with water and bring to a boil. Boil until the water darkens. The tea can be stored in an airtight bottle in the fridge.
Recipe for a 375 L or 100 us gallon aquarium:
15 to 20 leaves (15-25 cm / 6-10 in)
10 L or 2.5 us gallons of water
N.B! The tea must naturally have roughly the same temperature as the aquarium water when you add it, i.e. not to warm or too cold.
What do Almond leaves do for bettas?
The tannins released by the leaves help create water conditions that are similar to those in the natural habitat of the fish, which means ideal breeding conditions.
If you’re trying to get your bettas or Crystal Red shrimp to breed, adding a few Indian almond leaves to the breeding tank can speed up the process!
What do Indian almond leaves do?
Indian Almond Leaves are commonly used for conditioning and care of Bettas. They are believed to aid the fish in a number of ways, they increase fertility, health, and vigour.
Reduce Ph in water, aid in the recovery of diseased or damaged fish and the tannin quickly colours the water.
What are almond leaves used for?
Indian almond leaves (IAL) have traditionally been used by Betta (Siamese Fighting Fish) breeders in South East Asia to mimic the natural Betta habitat.
They are believed to aid the fish in a number of ways, such as helping fighting fish heal after a battle and inducing spawning in breeding tanks.
Do Indian almond leaves lower PH?
When Indian Almond leaves are immersed in water, the tannins and humic substances are released, which can lower the pH of the water.
If you want a natural solution to reduce the pH levels in your aquarium, Indian almond leaf helps to achieve just that. A study has also found that Indian almond leaves can significantly decrease water hardness (GH), which can benefit those who use hard water in their aquariums.
Is Talisay fruit edible?
The seed within the fruit is edible when fully ripe, tasting almost like almond. As the tree gets older, its crown becomes more flattened to form a spreading, vase shape.
I remember the old Visayan saying about sharing foods which says
Mabahin gani ang liso sa talisay na gamay kaayo ang pan pa kaha na sobra kadako
In English If the fruit of the talisay tree can be shared even it is too tiny how much more the size of the bread
What are Catappa leaves?
If you’re an aquarist, you’ve probably heard of Indian almond leaves (also known as Catappa leaves). These leaves of the Terminalia catappa tree are especially popular in the betta and shrimp hobby as a natural medicine and water conditioner.
indian almond leaves betta
What do Indian almond leaves do?
Indian Almond Leaves are commonly used for conditioning and care of Bettas. They are believed to aid the fish in a number of ways, they increase fertility, health, and vigour. Reduce Ph in water, aid in the recovery of diseased or damaged fish and the tannin quickly colours the water.
indian almond leaves aquarium
How do aquarists use Indian almond leaves?
Keep your Indian almond leaves in a dry place at room temperature until you wish to use them. …
If the tree may have been sprayed with pesticides or grows in a big city with lots of pollution, rinse the Indian almond leaves well in tap water before placing it in your tank.
indian almond leaves dried
In aquarium use, Indian almond leaves refer to the dried leaves of the Terminalia catappa tree – a tree that is native to Southeast Asia
Indian almond leaves are said to help combat fish diseases and prevent stress by … After drying them, they are ready for use in the aquarium.
Inducing Spawning If you want to breed some fries out of your betta couple, ketapang are a great tool for inducing spawning. Just like human beings, they work
1000 indian almond leaves
In case you didn’t know, we do not source dry catappa leaves from any supplier. … Every single leaf is inspected before they are ready for packing.
100 catappa indian almond leaves
aquatic arts indian almond leaves
Indian Almond Leaves are a popular treat for dwarf shrimp and aquatic snails. As a leaf decays in the water, it produces a large amount of biofilm
Aquarium Use – For Live Freshwater Shrimp, Snails, Fish (Betta, Otocinclus) Tank Health. Provides a great grazing spot for dwarf shrimp, snails, fish, and other surface-feeding animals.
xl indian almond leaves for shrimp
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References:
1: ClinicalTrials.gov. A service of the U.S. National Institutes of Health http://clinicaltrials.gov/ct2/results?intr=%22quercetin%22
2: Baek Nam-In; Kennelly E.J.; Kardono L.B.S.; Tsauri S.; Padmawinata K.; Soejarto D.D.; Kinghorn A.D., “Flavonoids and a proanthrocyanidin from rhizomes of Selliguea feei”. Phytochemistry, 1994, vol. 36, no2, pp. 513-518 (19 ref.)
3: Ute Nöthlings, Suzanne P. Murphy, Lynne R. Wilkens, Brian E. Henderson & Laurence N. Kolone. 2007. “Flavonols and Pancreatic Cancer Risk”. American Journal of Epidemiology 166 (8): 924–931.
