You’ve followed all of the right steps, and yet your Koi won’t breed. Don’t let another season pass without a success spawn.
Perhaps you should examine some of the common problems with
Koi and determine if the solution might be altering something
other than your breeding techniques.
The three most common areas of Koi problems are the following:
problems with Koi setup, water quality issues, and problems with the Koi themselves. Let’s examine these areas of interest one by one.
1 Problems With Your Koi Setup
a. Water Volume – This is the most typical Koi pond issue. If your
water volume is off, all of your calculations for your treatments and
heating requirements will be ineffective and create a sub-optimal environment for breeding.
While it should be relatively easy to ensure that you don’t have too
much water in the pond, a common mistake (particularly among
inexperienced Koi breeders) is too little water.
Why? It is easy to forget to compensate for natural loss of water
through evaporation and absorption. Check your water levels frequently and always before adding a treatment to the pond.
b. Incorrect Volume Calculation – Secondary to the needing a
volume correction, improperly calculating your water volume will also cause problems.
Some pond shapes, particularly homemade natural varieties, are
not easy to measure for volume accurately.
Furthermore, even if you know your pond volume from its
vendor, you may have failed to accommodate for displacement from your decorations.
Do yourself a favor and purchase a water meter for filling your pond. It is the safest and most accurate way to determine your true water volume.
c. Pump Malfunction – All pumps, even the most expensive brands, will wear out in time.
Remember that rarely will you encounter a case of a perfectly
functioning pump failing completely in a short amount of time.
Wear and tear will cause a gradual decline in efficiency.
You can increase the lifespan of your pump by conducting regular
cleaning and maintenance. Check for proper function frequently, and always keep a backup in case of sudden failure.
2. Water Quality Issues
a. Evaluate your water sources. If you are using tap water and your
Koi are not breeding, you may need to consider the possibility that
the tap water in your area is unacceptable for your pond.
In general, it is not recommended to use unfiltered tap water for Koi ponds anyhow.
While you can purchase purified water from the store, this will
become expensive in a short amount of time.
Consider installing a purifier for your house or at least the faucet where you draw the water for your pond.
b. If you think you may have water quality issues, you should probably get a salt meter. Without accurate measuring equipment,
knowing what your levels truly are is guesswork, at best. This can make hard, if not impossible to isolate your problems.
3. Unhealthy Koi
a. Inspect your Koi frequently. Look for damages to the scales, abnormal behavior, or anything else unusual.
Physical stress on your Koi will greatly reduce their likelihood of breeding.
Abnormal behavior in fish is the first sign of toxicity or sickness. Motor function of your fish will be easily affected by factors like pH or salt content of the water.
If your water is not cleaned or poorly maintained, you may
encounter disease, which can spread quite rapidly if untreated.
b. Not all health problems are easily identified. If you’re not handy
with a microscope or don’t have one, perhaps you should consider investing in one and a guide on how to use it.
Conducting periodic scrapes on your Koi and inspecting scales
under the scope is a good way to preemptively identify koi diseases and
parasites before they become an unmanageable problem.
c. If all else fails, seek veterinary advice. No one will argue that
your Koi flock is a considerable investment, particularly if you are
trying to breed for profit.
Even though professional consultation can be expensive, the cost
may pale in comparison to the cost of losing some or all of your flock to a disease. Remember to consider the cost of supplies and all of your valuable time spent raising your Koi.
Why are my koi staying at the bottom of the pond?
Many people stock their yard ponds with goldfish or colorful koi. Both are species of carp.
If you live in the north and the surface water is cold from extreme weather, they will head for the bottom to keep warm.
But the major reason fish stay on the bottom of a pond is that is where the oxygen is.
How do you know if a koi fish is dying?
Signs of Koi Disease
Not eating.
Fish segregating itself from others.
Fins clamped close to body.
Fish acting listless or lethargic.
Gasping at surface of pond.
Fish Sitting on bottom.
Hanging near surface or near waterfall.
Red streaks in fins.
Why are my koi fish dying?
Water Quality. This is THE leading cause of the death of Koi fish. It largely stems from the fish’s waste products and the first iteration of that is ammonia. … In the biological cycle of a koi pond ammonia is produced from fish waste, which gets turned into nitrites, then nitrates.
Why is my koi fish floating?
A sinking koi pellet may be helpful if the issue is caused by gulping air while feeding. Poor nutrition or nitrate-rich koi food may be the cause of a bladder infection or even stress causing the fish to swim strangely.
Can a fish recover from swim bladder disease?
When it is suspected the fish has swim bladder disorder due to a fall or injury, time is the only treatment. Keep the water clean and between 78 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit and add a small amount of aquarium salt to the tank. If the fish does not recover and is unable to eat, the humane resolution may be euthanasia.
Why do koi fish swim on their sides?
Although intestinal parasites and microorganisms can cause swim bladder disease, it mainly stems from overeating, eating too quickly or gulping too much air during feeding time.
Enough pressure on the swim bladder will cause the fish to swim any which way but up
Koi Diseases How to diagnose and treat common koi fish diseases
Koi fish are very hardy, robust fish and don’t often once become sick once they have settled into the koi pond.
koi disease occurs in ponds as fish fall prey to parasitic, bacterial or fungal attacks.
The causes of koi fish diseases varied and can range from a sudden drop in water temperature, predator attacks and spawning to name a few.
No matter what the cause of the koi diseases, one thing remains constant – the sooner you recognize and begin to treat the problem …the more likely you will be successful treating the koi diseases.
Regular pond maintenance and water-quality checks help keep diseases away from fish, but illnesses still occur, even in the best-kept ponds.
The first sign of a problem may be a fish floating at the surface, by which time it is probably too late for effective treatment.
For this reason, it is vital to set up a routine for examining fish; feeding time provides an ideal opportunity to check their appearance and behavior.
So how do you know if you have a sick koi fish? Sometimes the signs that a fish is sick are very subtle, such as one fish segregating itself away from other fish, or not eating very much.
As time passes and the koi disease gets worse, the symptoms become more obvious and may spread to other fish.
Environmental problems
The health of pond fish influenced by environmental conditions.
During spells of hot weather, for example, evaporation can lower water levels, which has the effect of concentrating dissolved nitrogenous waste.
Atthe same time, elevated temperatures drive oxygen out of the water; the combination of nitrate and oxygen stress can be fatal, especially for larger fish.
Many of these problems can avoided by topping off water levels during the summer, and incorporating a pump and filter; these improve water quality, break down waste, and increase oxygen content by creating water movement.
Overstocking a pond, especially if it is not well established, places great stress on its occupants, and fish may succumb to usually benign bacteria that are present in the water.
Overfeeding is another common environmental problem, especially in temperate areas in the spring and fall; uneaten food decomposes in the water, encouraging populations of pathogens.
It turns out that Koi is quite hardy for ornamental fish. But, on several occasions when there is irregularity in water quality, things may become quite rough for them.
Among the most major disease for Koi is Ich parasite or white spot disease.
This disease will make the fish look like they have been sprinkled with white salt all over their body.
This parasite will attach to the skin, and eat them alive for several weeks before they detach themselves and move to other host.
There are several disease affecting them as other fish, but there is one virus, which affected Koi and common carp but not other species.
That viral disease called Koi herpesvirus (KHV) or cyprinid herpesvirus 3. Most of the fish infected with this virus will die but some may survive.
Those who survive will be the carrier and may send the viral infection to other non-infected fish.
In this case, most of the breeders that have Koi diagnosed with KHV in their farm will need to take harsh action to cut all the population to avoid the spreading.
Photo credit to www.waterlife.com.uk
fish diseases pictures
Gill Rot
Gill rot fish diseases pictures
This disease occurs the most of all the koi diseases.
Irrespective of conditions of breeding or sizes of koi, it occurs.
It often does at high temperature above 20 degrees centigrade, but sometimes below the temperature, too
The disease advances . before the diseased koi fish loses its weight, it dies, that is before the fish shows any symptom, it dies.
In such a case if you open the gill, you will find red gill filaments turn grey or muddy, or some of them broken.
The germ is columnaris. Its treatment is oral administration of sulfadrugs or antibiotic substances or a medicated bath of furan drugs.
Aquatic terramycin is very useful
fish diseases pictures Anchor worm disease
Red swellings appear under the scales.
When the tip of a swelling pulled, a worm with an anchor-shaped top comes out.
The worms stick to fins, mouths and the hypoderm.
Sometimes fifty or sixty worms live on a fish and weaken it to death.
Liquid stays under the scales and puses them up. The scales bristle up. liquid stays also in the abdomen and the body swells. The diseased koi fish looks like a pine cone.
First a part of the body affected, but gradualy the disease spreads all over the body. Eyes of the diseased koi fish protrude.
It breathes hard, swimming around in crazy manner.
After a day or two the fish dies, overtunring on its back.
The Doitsu happens to affected by the disease, but it recovers
Its causes supposed to be some bacteria, interruption in blood circulation caused by a disease blood vessel or internal orga, some medicines and excessive eating of live foods.
It occurs often in the spring when oxidized pupae given to koi.
When the water temperature is high, it breaks out. Any fish, either fry or adult, affected in dirty water.
Sulfa drugs, anitbiotics and furan drugs are efficacious. It is also helpful to break blisters and apply monafracin with Dipterex to the part.
It is important to find the disease in its early stage, otherwise, it will be difficult to cure it.
White spot disease
Small white spots appear all over the body. They increase gradually and the body seems to be covered with the white powder.
The extreme case is that the outer layer of the skin comes off and the diseased koi grows weak to death.
Its germ is Ichthyophthirus, about 0.7 millimeter long, egg-shaped. Treatment for the disease is a medicated bath of franese for seven days.
Swollen cheeks
About one-month-old fry are apt to be affected. by Myxospridea just after they begin to be fed artificial bait.
A gill opens wide and shows red swollen gill filaments. The diseased fish breathes agonizingly and dies.
The disease spreads rapidly and many fries die. It the disease heals, the jaws of the affected koi will be deformed.
Koi older than two years old are not affected by it because they are immune to it.
The cause is Myxospridea. No medicine is efficacious against it.
For prevention, the water of the pond is to be disinfected with
malachite green early June and minced fresh meat of an immunized
koi aginst Myxopridea is to be given to the koi in the pond.
It will be carried on for a week. This treatment is effective enve after a koi becomes ill. The blood of the minced koi prevents Mixospridea from growing.
Fungus
Abrasion, Aquatic mold, Aquatic germ, Coton cover The germs have many mycelia of which bottom parts stay inside the skin of a diseased koi fish.
The upper parts live in the water. They look like fur. The extreme case is that they enter deep inside, and the fish grows weak and dies after two to seven days.
The disease often breaks out in a pond where too many fish are put or the water is dirty.
Weak or wounded koi are easily affected by the disease. Its germs are Sapro legniasis and Achlyasis.
Treatment for the disease is to wash and remove the germs in 1.5 to 2.5 NaCl solution.
Remove the fur-like mycelia and apply 2% mercurochrome to the affected part.
Then put the koi fish in a medicated bath of monafuracin for fish. A medicated bath ofNitrofurazone is also efficacious
How do you treat fungus on fish? Treat for 5 consecutive days. Repeat until symptoms clear.
Secondary infections are also common and can be treated with antibiotics or general cures like Tetra Ick® Guard® or Tetra® Fungus Guard®. Consistent temperature and good water quality will help prevent infections, in addition to using aquarium salt.
learn more at http://www.tetra-fish.com Can salt cure fish fungus? This is the reason that body fungus infections are not seen on saltwater fish.
Adding 1 tablespoon of noniodized rock salt to each gallon of water is helpful in effecting a cure.
Salt will kill aquarium plants and snails, but this should not be a problem if you are treating the infected fish in a separate container.
What keeps fungus from growing on fish’s body? Prevention. You can easily prevent body fungus.
The fungi that cause this disease are considered “opportunistic” infections.
This means that the fungi lives in most aquarium water, and even on the skin of most aquarium fish, without causing disease.
Is fungus on fish contagious? Because fungus is not contagious, infected fish can be moved to a quarantine tank for treatment away from other livestock.
This is the recommended approach for systems where some of the livestock are intolerant of antifungal medications.
What causes fungus on fish? The infection is usually caused by the fungus Branchiomyces and can cause the entire gill to rot away.
Infections usually occur in stressed fish that are living in tanks with high levels of ammonia or nitrate.
How do you treat fish fungus in a pond? Make an un-iodized salt dip by using Pond Salt (available at your local pond retailer).
Dissolve 2.5 cupfuls of Pond Salt in 10 U.S. gallons of pond water making a 2.0% solution.
Gently place fish in a soft nylon net, then lower them into the salt dip for 5 to 10 minutes, no longer.
Fish lice disease
A koi with fish lice swims as if it were jumping in water, scrubs itself against rocks or swims along the walls of the pond.
Being examined closely, it has worms about 5 millimeters long and 3 millimeters wide often on fins.
They make the fish weak and causes some other diseases of which it dies. The technical term of a fish louse is Argulus foliaccus.
It can be exterminated by Dipterex
Bladder disease
A koi with this disease struggles to go up to the surface, sinks down to the bottom or turns itself upside down.
It loses the sense of equilibrium and cannot swim in a normal position.
The causes are that swelled intestines press the air bladder because of indigestion, that indigestion makes the body weak as the temperature falls and that fatty degeneration of an air bladder.
It is difficult to cure it.
Tumor of reproductive organs
Huge koi are apt to be affected by the disease. The diseased koi has a large tumor in its abdomen which gradually gets larger and affects the skin Finally the tumor breaks and the fish dies.
Especially the tumor in the first half of the body seems to be malignant. It is a malignant tumor of the genital gland.
Particles like cancer virus are found in it. The tumor should be found and removed in its early stage.
Examination of the texture is necessary as soon as it is found.
Spinal paralysis
Agricultural chemicals such as Dipterex, over-feeding or electric shocks from the submersible pump motor or lighting cause koi spinal paralysis.
They become crooked. It is difficult to cure it, but sometimes it heals naturally. Keeping the diseased fish in a large pond is an effective treatment.
Gas bubble disease
It occurs when the water temperature is high in the summer. Fry often suffer from it in green water.
Gas bubbles appear on the head or the fins and sometimes eyes protrude, supersaturation of oxygen in water causes the disease.
It can be prevented by adding water to the pond or making a shade over it.
When aeration or heating is working in a tank, they must be well-controlled not to cause the disease.
Dystrophy of the back
The back of a diseased koi caves in along the dorsal fin. The line of the backbone shows itself clearly.
Its mortality rate is not high. Koi affected by the disease are weak against oxygen shortage or wintering.
They are apt to get scraped or molded. The cause is said to be degenerate fat of pupae.
A report tells the disease resembles men’s sugar diabetes pathologically. Vitamin E drugs are used for its treatment but it is very difficult to cure it.
Health concerns
Regular pond maintenance and water-quality checks help keep diseases away from fish, but illnesses still occur, even in the best-kept ponds.
The first sign of a problem may be a fish floating at the surface, by which time it is probably too late for effective treatment.
For this reason, it is vital to set up a routine for examining fish; feeding time provides an ideal opportunity to check their appearance and behavior.
Environmental problems The health of pond fish is hugely influenced by environmental conditions. During spells of hot weather, for example, evaporation can significantly lower water levels, which has the effect of concentrating dissolved nitrogenous waste.
At the same time, elevated temperatures drive oxygen out of the water; the combination of nitrate and oxygen stress can be fatal, especially for larger fish.
Many of these problems can be avoided simply by topping off water levels regularly during the summer, and incorporating a pump and filter; these improve water quality, break down waste, and increase oxygen content by creating water movement.
Overstocking a pond, especially if it is not well established, places great stress on its occupants, and fish may succumb to usually benign bacteria that are present naturally in the water.
Overfeeding is another common environmental problem, especially in temperate areas in the spring and fall; uneaten food decomposes in the water, encouraging populations of pathogens.
Dealing with disease Disease-causing bacteria, fungi, and parasites may be introduced into the pond whenever it is stocked with fish or plants.
Undesirable organisms can also be brought in on the bodies of animals, especially wading birds, that move from pond to pond.
These can multiply and cause serious harm
before their presence is detected, and eliminating them can be very difficult. A table of the most common conditions seen in pond fish, as well as treatment strategies, follows
If your fish are affected, you are most likely to first notice changes in their behavior and feeding patterns; a sick fish may, for example, distance itself from others, or take refuge behind a plant.
If disease is suspected, affected fish should immediately be removed from the pond and kept in isolation, preferably in a large aquarium (see above). Here you can inspect the body close-up and check for symptoms of disease or parasite infestation.
Fish lice will be visible in this environment, and you should also be able to detect gill flukes much earlier than would be possible in a pond.
Treatments can be carried out in the tank itself, or in smaller baths, and the fish’s progress can be readily monitored before reintroduction to the pond.
If a fish is affected with a disease or parasite, check other fish to determine whether there is a general problem in the pond or the disease is an isolated instance.
Look out, too, for secondary infections. Sometimes the entire pond needs treatment with commercial chemicals, but often it is sufficient to treat individual fish.
Check all water-quality parameters before reintroducing the fish; minimizing environmental stress will help prevent recurrence of the condition.
Certain diseases, such as the rapidly spreading koi herpesvirus (KHV), are untreatable, emphasizing the importance of isolating new fish before introducing them to a pond and seeking professional advice if many fish become ill.
should you put salt in koi pond To salt or not to salt? It’s a question hotly debated by koi hobbyists. When used in low doses, salt has many health benefits for your fish – but when used in too-high doses, it can do more harm than good. Here’s what you need to know about adding salt to your pond.
salt in koi pond Many people who keep Koi fish insist on adding salt in koi pond
salt in koi pond can be a good idea in quarantine ponds, as it can help those fish that are suffering from stress.
However, salt in koi pond may cause more trouble than it is worth in a pond for breeders or young Koi.
When a sufficient quantity of salt is placed in the pond water, the skin of the Koi gets slightly irritated.
This causes them to have to produce an extra thick slime coat.
That slime coat helps to protect them from parasites and bacteria, which sounds good.
The reality is that salt kept in a pond all year can cause the parasites that plague your Koi fish to slowly but surely build up a resistance to the salt.
This will make it harder than ever to kill off the parasites and rid your fish of them once and for all.
A little salt in koi pond is fine in the Spring to boost the immune system of your breeders, but make sure to do your regular water changes in order to clean all the salt out of your pond when this “spring tonic” is used.
don’t add salt to your koi pond unless for medical purposes for a specific, diagnosed issue (such as Whitespot or Nitrite). And then, if possible, remove the koi fish to quarantine and treat them there.You can also use it very effectively as a bath at high concentrations.
Salt has very few and very limited purposes which is why so few use it in a pond-wide application. If the water is salted it can cause some medications (if any are needed) to become toxic.
Conclusion it is NOT a good idea to leave salt in your koi pond all year long. … Such drastic measures can often times be dangerous to your koi fish
Bottom line, if you don’t have a thorough understanding of “why” anything should be added to your pond, what is the point? Would you put a band aid on your hand if there was no wound?
Is salt good for koi pond?
Pond salt is something every fish or koi owner should have on hand at all times. Adding pond salt will help boost your koi’s natural defenses to disease and add beneficial electrolytes to the water.
Should I put salt in my pond?
If you’re adding low doses of salt to your pond and have no aquatic plants, use 2½ cups of salt per 100 gallons of water and disperse the pond salt evenly around the shoreline. Salt will not evaporate or get filtered out, so the only time you need to add more salt is when you do water changes
How much salt should be in the pond?
A minimum for one pound (2 cups) of Salt to a maximum of 2.5 pounds (5 Cups) per 100 Gallons (.1 to .25%) of water should be added to your pond. Salt is essential for fish health.
Will Salt kill algae in a pond?
Using Rock Salt. Other than placing your pond in a shady area where it does not receive ample sunlight, you can use rock salt to kill algae. Laguna Koi Ponds recommends 1 lb. of rock per 1,000 gallons of water to kill the string-like algae. Use caution when using salt as it can kill plants and fish in the pond.
Can you put salt in the pond?
Adding Pond Salt to Your Koi Pond. … If used in correct doses, pond salt can offer many benefits to koi carp and pond water.
Can koi fish survive in saltwater?
koi fish can live only in a freshwater environment. Some fish species can live in both freshwater and saltwater. … However, most fish species can only survive in one or the other based on their salinity tolerance, or how much salt their bodies can handle.
Is Pond salt the same as aquarium salt?
Basic Aquarium Salt is not the same as the formulated mixes used to make a brackish or saltwater aquarium. Aquarium Salt is simply Sodium Chloride, and does not contain minerals and trace elements like calcium and iodine like sea water mixes.
What is Pond salt made of?
All-natural API® Pond Salt is made from evaporated sea water, and provides essential electrolytes that fish need to survive. Salt improves gill function, protects against nitrite toxicity, and reduces stress by helping to maintain a natural balance of electrolytes in the body fluids of pond fish.
what kind of salt to use in pond
Adding pond salt will help boost your koi’s natural defences to disease and add beneficial electrolytes to the water.
Non-iodized salt, Sodium Chloride (NaCl) is commonly used in the health care and maintenance of fishes, especially Koi and goldfish.
Can I use table salt in my pond?
You can’t, however, just dump a scoop of common salt, like tasty table salt or ice-melting rock salt, into the water.
Fish friendly Pond Logic® Pond Salt is made from pure evaporated sea salt – and that’s it.
It contains no iodine, chloride or other harsh chemicals that could harm your fish.
How much salt should be in a koi pond?
A minimum for one pound (2 cups) of Salt to a maximum of 2.5 pounds (5 Cups) per 100 Gallons (.1 to .25%) of water should be added to your pond. Salt is essential for fish health.
salt koi pond calculator
The calculator will retain the last field entered and will calculate the missing field.
For example, if you enter Gallons and then go to Amount, the % Salinity will be calculated or if you enter Gallons and then % Salinity, the Amount will be calculated. *(note 0.1 = 10%)
Salt concentrations will vary; always consult with a professional before introducing any major changes to your ponds ecosystem.
how to use metronidazole for fish (for treating anaerobic bacteria) and anti-protozoal medication
where to buy metronidazole for fish you can buy metronidazole for koi fish at petstore near you or drug stores.
metronidazole for fish dosage Directions from SeaChem Metronidazole; use 100 mg. for every 10 gallons (40 L).
Repeat every 2 days until symptoms disappear.
If there are no available SeaChem Metronidazole at pet stores near your place. You can purchase Metronidazole for humans.
You can buy Metronidazole for humans at any drugs stores near you.
Make sure any UV Sterilizer (if used) is turned off and any carbon, Purigen,
Chemipure or similar chemical filter media is also removed during treatment.
To feed (use as for a medicated food), use 100 mg. with approximately i tablespoon of frozen or dried food (fried food would need to be placed in just enough water to cover and make wet/moist).
Feed until symptoms disappear. Introduction of Metronidazole to the aquarium water when feeding is OK.
Metronidazole can also be used in a fish bath. This is generally performed at double the “in tank” dose as per amount of water used in this bath.
I recommend the use of Methylene Blue and maybe salt during this bath treatment too (once or twice per day for 7-10 days).
metronidazole for fish bloat, metronidazole for fish parasites, metronidazole for fish cures ich, metronidazole for koi fish and humans
you can use metronidazole for human if there are no available metronidazole for fish in the pet stores near you
Metronidazole is an antibiotic (for anaerobic bacteria) and anti-protozoal medication used to treat various conditions internally and externally in fish.
As for Anaerobic bacteria, these are bacterium that thrive in environments in which there is little oxygen (anaerobic environments) and can cause disease in such environments as the intestinal tract and liver.
Metronidazole belongs to a class of antibiotics known as nitroimidazoles which work by ceasing the growth of bacteria and protozoa.
Metronidazole works by selectively blocking some of the functions within the bacterial cells and some parasites resulting in their death.
Metronidazole is metabolized in the liver (whether a fish or a human).
Metronidazoles primary use is for the treatment of ANAEROBIC gram positive & SOME negative bacteria including those that produce beta-lactamase.
However, it is not effective against aerobic bacterium. This means Metronidazole is a poor choice for suspected
bacterial diseases in open heavily oxygenated aquariums/ponds such as Columnaris,
while it is an excellent choice for diseases of the low/no oxygen environment of the intestinal tract or other internal
suspected bacterial pathogens (generally used ina fish food soak for best results).
Metronidazole may be a good choice for any bacterial disease present in low oxygen, high bio-load aquariums or ponds.
As well Metronidazole is effective for some protozoa.
It was originally found effective for the management of infection caused by Trichomonas vaginalis.
For fish applications Metronidazole has been shown to be in particular more effective for internal and external flagellates.
Metronidazole is also sometimes effective for other protozoan parasite infections, especially for
Cryptocaryon in marine aquaria as well as Hexamita & Ichthyophthirius.
Metronidazole is often recommended for disease in Cichlids which is often thought to be caused by Hexamita,
HOWEVER there is considerable evidence that the cause of “Hole in the Head” is simply the lack of Calcium and even positive calcium ions.
This is especially common in aquariums utilizing water softened using sodium chloride or potassium chloride to drive out hard water minerals.
Use of such water should be ceased prior to using Metronidazole and as well, the use of products such as Wonder
Shells mineral blocks should also be used first before treating with Metronidazole (or combined).
Due to Metronidazoles effectiveness against anaerobic bacteria by selectively blocking some of the cell functions of
anaerobic bacteria, Metronidazole along with Neomycin is a good choice for bloating of the digestive tract (common in goldfish).
Metronidazole selectively blocks some of the cell functions in anaerobic bacteria, resulting in their demise.
Metronidazole is also effective used in combination (such as with Praziquantel) or by itself for internal parasites such as Nematodes or Trematodes.
In marine aquarium infections is where Metronidazole really shines as it is very effective internally and since Marine
fish are always drinking the water around them, medication is easily transported to the infected area.
In Freshwater, treatment can be improved by soaking food as well and this is still an effective freshwater treatment as well.
7 days is a minimum treatment time indicated by the author. Instructions for treating with Metro for Hexamita
typically suggest 7-10 days, and if you read National Fish Pharmacy instructions for their Metro, they indicate 10 days period, nothing less.
Instructions vary and most instructions for treating with Metro indicate repeating dose every 24 hours with a 25% water change before treatment.
Part of the reason for the water change is to help reduce the flagellites that are expelled in the feces into the water.
A study at the University of Florida on Hexamita in Angelfish and treatment methods showed daily 25% water changes were almost as effective at reducing the amount of Hexamita in the intestines of affected fish as the metro.
Metro should be combined with Nitrofuracin Green powder for 14 days to be truly effective.
Metro for 10, Nitro in combination with the Metro but for 14 days.
What does metronidazole treat in fish?
Metronidazole; by SeaChem, API, More. Metronidazole is an
antibiotic (for anaerobic bacteria) and anti-protozoal medication
used to treat various conditions internally and externally in fish.
What does MetroPlex treat in fish?
MetroPlex™ is an effective and safe treatment for several protozoan
and anaerobic bacterial diseases of fish (Cryptocaryon, Hexamita, Ichthyophthirius).
It does not adversely affect the filter bed and is easily removed with carbon. It can either be dosed into the water or combined with Focus™ in a medicated food mix.
What is fish ZOLE used for?
Fish Zole™ (Metronidazole) from Thomas Labs is an antibiotic that
is used for parasitic and bacterial infections in fish.
It is useful for control of some common bacterial diseases in fish,
including diseases caused by bacteria such as Aeromonas,
Pseudomonas, and Mycobacterial (Gill diseases and Chondrococcus).
metronidazole for fish dosage
Metronidazole (National Fish Pharmaceuticals). Hex-A-Mit … Actual dosages are best at about 0.25% Metronidazole fed at a daily rate of 1% of body weight.
