Koi fish can be a beautiful, colorful addition to a garden, which is
why many homeowners choose to incorporate them into their ponds.
If you are considering adding koi into your landscape, find out how
to create an eco-environment for your koi fish.
Introduce a Circulation System
A circulation system is simply the pumps and plumbing, which are
required to provide the appropriate oxygen levels to effectively care
for both the koi fish and plants.
It will also help you to maintain your pond’s aesthetic appeal, as it will create a cleaner environment.
Install an Effective Filtration System
A filtration system should include both a biological and a mechanical filter.
The biological filter will provide a surface area for the colonization
of bacteria, so that it can remove the water’s excess nutrients.
While the mechanical filter will not only feature the pond pump,
but it will prefilter the water and remove debris along the water’s
surface, and can, therefore, prevent the development of organic
materials on the pond’s floor. By doing so, it will create a healthier environment for all organisms within the pond.
Utilize Solar Power for Your Pond
Reduce your pond’s energy consumption and your household bills
by opting for solar power pumps and filters.
The systems will be powered by natural sunlight, so it won’t cost you a penny to run a clean and healthy pond for your fish.
If you are looking for high-quality, affordable circulation and
filtration systems, visit Water-garden.co.uk.
Add Fish for Natural Maintenance
Many people might believe that fish will create a maintenance
problem in a pond, but they can actually do the opposite.
Fish can actually reduce maintenance in a pond, as they are known
to graze on the string algae and bottom feed along the pond’s floor.
So, if you want to add a pond to your garden, you should ensure it’s bursting with life by adding plenty of fish.
Embark with Seasonal Maintenance
Of course, a pond will need a little bit of maintenance to create a
healthier environment for both your koi fish and the planet.
For example, seasonal maintenance will require you to drain your pond completely.
You will also need to scrub your substrate and rockwork with a
pond scraper, or you could use another algae removal device.
Routine maintenance can be a lot less laborious than seasonal maintenance.
It simply ensures the effective functioning of your filtration system,
and you’ll need to rinse both the biological and mechanical filter. You’ll also need to remove the pump for cleaning.
For example, you should remove each moving parts for cleaning,
and you should lubricate all gaskets.
As ponds are susceptible to limescale build-up, this can cause a
pump to stall or burn out, which can create unhealthy pond.
You must invest in a high-quality pond pump descaler, which
should be free from harmful acetic acid and chlorine additives. Also, don’t forget to check its pipes and tubing for cracks, leaks, and weak spots.
How much does it cost to build a koi pond?
A shallow 4′ x 6′ or 6′ x 8′ professionally-installed pond, including
excavation, liner, filtration system, and simple rock border might cost $2,000 to $3,500. As a DIY project, the same pond might cost $500 to $1,000. Larger ponds, depending on features and equipment, can easily cost $5,000 to $15,000 or more.
What is the minimum size for a koi pond?
A pond for goldfish or water lilies need be only about 2 feet deep for zones 5 or greater.
Ponds built in colder areas may need more depth to keep the pond from freezing solid.
Ponds built for koi should be close to three feet or deeper to allow these larger fish enough space.
How much space does a koi fish need?
Koi should be stocked based on a reasonable estimate of their full growth, not on their size at purchase.
Most well-maintained ponds will support 1″ of fish per ten gallons of water.
Though some koi in the largest ponds will grow to 36″, we recommend using an average of 21″.
different types of goldfish How to take care 15 different goldfish breeds you need to know
types of goldfish
Types of Goldfish (goldfish breeds)
Undoubtedly the most widely kept of all fish, goldfish exist in a far wider range of colors than their name implies.
Goldfish are suitable for both home aquariums and ponds, although the different color forms vary in terms of
their hardiness and not all are suited to be kept outdoors all year in temperate areas.
Goldfish are members of the carp family, but unlike most fish in this group, they lack any barbels around the mouth.
This characteristic allows them to be distinguished at a glance from koi. you can check out this blog post about the difference between a koi vs goldfish
Hardy Goldfish Types goldfish breeds
A body shape that has an elongated flattened football shape include: the Common, the Comet, Shubunkin. (good breeds for an outdoor goldfish pond).
The common, comet and shubunkin look very similar in shape and colors.
The comet has longer fins and most notably its tail fin is much longer.
The common doesn’t come in calico but the comet and shubunkin do.
The shubunkin is only calico so if it’s calico with short fins, it can’t be a common.
common goldfish (Carassius auratus) can become tame in both pond and aquarium surroundings.
They may live for more than 40 years—far longer than most other pond and aquarium fish.
Common Goldfish This is not only the most popular goldfish variety, but also the hardest and potentially the largest.
It occurs in a range of colors, but solid (“self-colored”) fish are usually preferred.
Good specimens display body symmetry, with even curves on the upper and lower body.
A short, broad caudal peduncle and a wide, slightly forked caudal fin make common goldfish strong swimmers.
These fish can survive in frozen ponds for short periods provided the water is deep enough for them to avoid becoming trapped in the ice itself.
Red-and-White Common Goldfish The white areas of these variably patterned fish have a silvery sheen.
White Common Goldfish This variety, sometimes called the Pearl, is less popular than its colored cousin, but it
proves to be equally hardy.
Common Goldfish These fish vary from yellow through bright orange to a deep blood-red.
In exceptional circumstances, they may reach over 24 in (60 cm) long.
This elegant variety originated in the United States during the late 1800s. It is distinguished by its slim, streamlined body and its deeply forked caudal fin, which should be longer than the body when fully extended.
Comets are usually variegated in color; the most popular variety is the Sarasa, which is easily recognizable by the
deep red-and-white patterning extending over the body and fins.
Comets are active by nature,and require a spacious aquarium if kept indoors.
They will thrive in pond surroundings, although they may prove vulnerable to fin congestion during periods of severe cold weather.
Comet The Comet’s caudal and dorsal fins are greatly enlarged. This individual displays some chocolate body patterning.
Sarasa Orange may replace the more common red color of these fish. The variegated patterning
differs widely among individuals.
PIGMENTATION AND SHEEN
The protective scles on a goldfish form part of the outer layer of the body known as the epidermis.
Beneath this is a layer called the dermis, which itself overlies layers of fat and muscle.
Distributed among these layers are the pigments that give goldfish their vibrant skin colors.
These include reddish-orange and yellow pigments known as lipochromes, and melanin, a black pigment.
Lipochromes usually occur in the upper layers, but the location of the black pigment is more variable.
If melanin is present just below the scales, the goldfish looks jet black; if located in the lower layers, the fish looks blue (for example, the Blue Pom-Pon, bottom right).
When both types of pigment are present in different layers, this creates chocolate or coppery shades.
A goldfish that completely lacks pigmentation is silvery in color.
Another factor influencing the appearance of goldfish is the presence in the dermis of cells known as iridocytes.
These cells are normally distributed over the entire body, giving goldfish, such as the Blue Pom-Pom, a
However, the upper iridocytes are missing in some goldfish varieties. In such cases, the lower level of cells has a direct effect
ORIGINS AND ANCESTRY
Goldfish are descended from carp that were kept in China about 1,700 years ago.
The first records of orange-marked carp date back to AD 300, but it was only from around AD 800, during the Sung Dynasty, that people started to breed these colorful cyprinids for ornamental purposes.
prominently in oriental literature and many other forms of art, including ceramics, and it is possible to track their early development from such sources.
Ancestral lines displaying many of the features seen in today’s varieties, including telescope-eyes, were well-established by 1600, as were numerous color variants, including some with variegated coloring.
The different body shapes and fin types that characterize many of the modern varieties were also beginning to emerge by the early 17th century.
Goldfish were imported to Japan in the 16th century, where still more varieties were bred, but it was to be another 200 years before they became available in the West.
They soon became highly sought-after, as the pond fish of first choice for the estates of the European aristocracy, and were kept in decorative bowls in grand houses.
Rather surprisingly, they did not reach North America until 1874. Nevertheless, their popularity grew so rapidly there that the first commercial goldfish breeding farm was established in the United States just 15 years later.
This popular variety is very close in appearance to the Common Goldfish.
This is especially so in the case of the London Shubunkin, which has an identical body, and differs only in terms of the arrangement of its iridocytes.
This particular variety was developed by London breeders during the 1920s, by which time enthusiasts in the U.S. had already created the long-tailed American Shubunkin.
In due course, the two varieties were crossed by breeders of the Bristol Aquarist Society in western England, creating the Bristol Shubunkin—a very distinctive and different form with large, flowing lobes on its caudal fin, which must not be allowed to droop.
Shubunkin coloration is generally very variable, but the orange areas tend to be paler than those of Common Goldfish.
They may also display dark speckling, as well as bluish shades that range from pale-whitish through to violet.
Darkly marked Shubunkins are highly attractive when seen at close range, but they are less conspicuous in ponds unless the water is particularly clear.
American Shubunkin The caudal fin lobes of this variety are much narrower than those of the Bristol Shubunkin;
they are tapering rather than rounded in shape.
Fancy Types of Goldfish goldfish breeds
An egg shape body shape are considered the fancy breeds and can include: Fantail, Ryukin, Veiltail, Oranda, Telescope,Black Moor, Panda Butterfly, Ranchu, lionhead, Pompon, Pearlscale, Hama Nishki, Celestial and Bubble-Eye.
The mature oranda, ranchu and lionhead has a wart like wen hood cover over its face and head
The oranda has a dorsal fin and the lionhead and most ranchu don’t.
The ranchu has a prominent arch in its back and downward pointed tail fins.
The lionhead and oranda have a straighter back line.
A goldfish with a hood cover with a straight back and no dorsal fin is a lionhead.
The fantail, ryukin and veiltail have similar egg shaped bodies with no distinct features like a hood cover or globe eyes
The fantail and ryukin have sturdy upright fins and tails.
The ryukin has a more prominent hump that the dorsal fin sits on than the fantail.
The veiltail has long flowing fins and tail.
The telescope, black moor and panda butterfly have their eyes on the sides of ball like protuberances
A black moor is a telescope/globe-eye but is only black or faded black in color.
The panda butterfly resembles the colors of a panda bear, clear sections of black and white.
The pearlscale and hama nishiki have a golf ball body shape with scales that stand out like little white domes
the hama nishiki has a slight hood cover on top of its head while the pearlscale does not.
The celestial has bulging eyes that point upward and no dorsal fin.
The bubble eye has two bubble shaped check pouches
This ancient Chinese variety can be identified by its rotund body, double caudal fins, and pearl-like markings on the sides of its body.
Each scale has a raised whitish center, making it look as if a pearl is embedded in it.
The variegated red-and-white form is the most common Pearlscale goldfish, but there is a also nacreous variety that resembles the Shubunkin in coloration.
Pearlscales goldfish are not strong swimmers, and are usually kept in aquariums rather than ponds, where their distinctive appearance is easier to appreciate.
The most obvious feature of this goldfish is the hump between the dorsal fin and the head.
The body is relatively short and deep, the dorsal fin is tall, and the elongated caudal fin is divided to form a double tail.
Ryukins are generally brightly colored, with a deep-red and white coloration being the preferred form.
The markings on these goldfish should be symmetrical as far as possible.
Chocolate (coppery) individuals are often recognized as a separate form, the Tetsuonaga, especially in Japan.
Tetsuonagas have a reputation for both hardiness and the quality of their fin shape, so they are useful in Ryukin breeding.
The Ryukin is named after Japan’s Ryukyu Islands, where the ancestors of this goldfish were first introduced from China.
Orange-and-White Ryukin Ryukins have either normal eyes, as shown in this largely orange form, or, occasionally, telescope-eyes.
Calico Ryukin Nacreous patterning is not common in double-tailed goldfish but is seen in the Ryukin.
Calico Ryukins often have bold, contrasting markings.
This form displays a variegated pattern of orange and white body markings.
The vibrantly colored areas, which can vary from yellow through to reddish-orange, should extend around the body
so that the white areas do not predominate.
Purewhite wakin goldfish, which occasionally occur, are not favored by breeders.
Although the reflective metallic form is the most common, a nacreous variety also exists.
The wakin goldfish has a body shape similar to the Common Goldfish, but it can be instantly distinguished by its double caudal fin.wakin goldfish are lively by nature, and grow rapidly; fish reared in ponds can reach 8 in (20 cm) in
length by three years of age.
Descended from Japanese Wakin stock, the Jikin is often known in the West as the Peacock Tail.
The raised upper lobes of its double caudal fin form an X-shape when viewed from behind.
The Jikin’s body should be mainly silvery, with red areas restricted to the fins and around the lips.
However, breeding Jikins with this desired arrangement of markings and a well-balanced caudal fin shape always proves difficult, even when the parent fish are both well-marked and from a long-established line.
The matt-black color of the Black Moor is highly distinctive, as is its corpulent body shape.
This goldfish is a telescope-eye variety, with eyes extending out from the sides of the head.
The Black Moor is a selective color form of the Veiltail Although developed in the UK, it is now kept worldwide.
These fish are not very hardy, and are better suited to an aquarium than an outdoor pond, especially through the winter (in temperate areas).
Their coloration makes for an attractive contrast with brightly colored goldfish.
The absence of a dorsal fin is a key feature of the Lionhead.
The result is a smooth back that curves gently to the double caudal fin, the curvature accentuated by the fish’s relatively long body.
As Lionheads grow older, they develop a distinctive hood that covers the entire head area.
The headgrowth or hood (also known as wen or crown) may be a prominent growth on the top of the head (cranial region) or may encase the whole head except for the eyes and mouth
This usually starts to become evident at the very top of the head, and takes several years to develop to its full extent, when it has a raspberry-like appearance.
The hood is more developed in this variety than in any other.
Lionheads exist in a wide range of colors, although solid colors such as orange are most commonly seen.
They do not thrive at high temperatures, nor are they hardy in temperate areas.
Blue Lionhead When fully grown, the hood should cover the entire head, encircling the eyes.
The head has a wide appearance when viewed from above.
The dorsal fin on the back of an Oranda allows it to be distinguished at a glance from other types of hooded goldfish.
The Oranda also has a longer body shape and is a more powerful swimmer.
The hood, or wen as it is called in Japan, is normally restricted to the top of the head, extending back over the eyes. In mature individuals, the area between the folds of the hood may appear whitish.
Although this can look like a sign of disease, it is actually an accumulation of the protective mucus produced by the fish’s body.
The coloration of these goldfish is sometimes unstable, just as it can be in other hooded varieties.
This is particularly true of blackand- orange individuals, in which the orange areas often become more
prominent over time.
Blue Oranda In this increasingly popular color variety, the underparts are usually a lighter shade.
Sporting a hood similar to the Lionhead’s, the Ranchu is the Japanese counterpart of that ancient Chinese breed.
The Ranchu can be differentiated from the Lionhead by its shorter, more steeply curved body.
As with Lionheads, not all Ranchus display smooth body curvature from head to tail, and an individual with slight humps along its back is considered to be seriously flawed.
The double caudal fin may be only partially divided. In Ranchus of the highest quality, the top edge of the caudal
fin should ideally form an angle of 90 degrees with the caudal peduncle.
Ranchus, which are also known as Buffaloheads, are the most popular Japanese goldfish.
Four principal founding lines are recognized, each of which is named after its creator.
The dominant variety is the Ishikawa lineage; the others are Sakuri, Uno, and Takahashi.
All these forms display a hood, but some less-common varieties lack this feature.
They include the Osaka Ranchu, named after its city of origin, which also has a more rounded body. Another hoodless variety is the Nankin Ranchu, from the Shimane area of Japan, a silvery-white fish with red gill covers, lips, and fins.
In addition, there is the rare Nacreous Ranchu, also called the Edonishiki, in which the hood is poorly developed.
Red-and-White Ranchu A mature individual with hood growth on the side of the face is described as okame (the
name of a Japanese theatrical mask indicating a fat girl).
Red Ranchu All the Ranchu’s fins are relatively short; the caudal fin is carried high. The hood has yet to develop in
the young specimen shown above.
The elegant fins of the Veiltail are easily damaged,so this goldfish should be housed in a spacious aquarium—free from obstructions such as large rocks—rather than in a pond.
The long caudal fin of the Veiltail is fully divided, so that it hangs down in folds.
The dorsal fin is tall, and in a well-proportioned Veiltail it should match the height of the body.
The overall body shape of this variety is rounded rather than elongated.
The anal fin is paired and relatively long, and tends to flow vertically when the fish is swimming.
In addition to individuals with normal eyes, telescope-eye examples of this variety are not uncommon.
The breed was developed from Ryukin stock by American breeders around
Philadelphia in the late 1800s
Celestial goldfish names
Actual video of celestial eye golfish
Selective breeding of the goldfish has brought into being numerous variations in eye shape.
The Celestial has eyes that protrude very obviously.
They are not on the sides of the head, as in most goldfish, but rather in a semihorizontal plane so that they point upward, as if toward the stars (hence the name).
The fry hatch with a normal eye arrangement, but the eyes rotate and shift position soon afterward.
The bodies of these goldfish are relatively elongated, and they have slightly curved backs, with no dorsal fins.
Both metallic and nacreous forms of the Celestial exist.
bubble eye goldfish
This unmistakable variety is characterized by the presence of large, bubblelike sacs under its eyes.
As in the case of Celestials, Bubble-Eyes have a long body shape, lack a dorsal fin, and have a double caudal fin.
Symmetry is a very important feature of this variety, with the sacs ideally being equal in size and shape.
These fluid-filled sacs wobble when the fish swims, and become compressed when it searches for food on the floor of the aquarium.
In a good specimen, the combined width of the bubbles and head should match that of the body. Bubble-Eyes
are only suitable for aquarium surroundings.
The tank setup needs to minimize the risk that the fish will damage their bubbles and provide them with plenty of swimming space.
Rockwork should not be included, and plants should be restricted to the back and sides of the tank. If a sac is accidentally punctured, it is likely to deflate.
can guppies live with goldfish
No Once the goldfish get large enough, they’ll eat (most of) the guppies, unless there are sufficient places for the guppies to hide from the goldfish.
(This rule generalizes to “When one fish fits inside the mouth of another fish, the first fish gets eaten.”)
There are many tanks that contain plastic dividers to keep your fish separate. Most goldfish are kind of herbivores. Usually goldies are the things eaten by other things when they are small.
But if your goldfish gets big enough I’m not promising it won’t eat other fish, it just might… Goldfish will eat insect larva and occasionally other fish if they are big enough and the prey is small enough.
They eat crustaceans some small invertebrates and plant material frequently. Small fish fry are likely to be eaten if the Goldie is hungry.
Gold fish are a pretty peaceful tank fish. They have different dietary needs than many other fish, so make sure all fish in your tank have their dietary needs met.
types of goldfish that can live together
Goldfish are easy to care for and fun to watch. But it’s essential that you understand which types can live together.
Although goldfish are more social than tropical fish, you could have compatibility issues if you place different types of goldfish together.
The types of goldfish include flat-body and egg-shaped, such as fancy goldfish. Egg-shaped goldfish cannot live with flat-body goldfish.
Egg-shaped goldfish are slow swimmers, and many fancies have trouble seeing. Flat-body goldfish will consume all the food before the egg-shaped ones realize you dropped food in the aquarium.
Egg-shaped or fancy goldfish look round like eggs and have decorative, long fins. Some fancies have bulbous heads or eyes, like the celestial bubble-eye and the black moor. Flat-body goldfish have slim, streamlined bodies and swim quickly. They include the common goldfish and comets.
All types of goldfish can survive in an unheated, indoor aquarium.
All goldfish are social. However, flat-body goldfish may bully the egg-shaped fancies if the aquarium is too small and the fish are competing for space and food. learn more
goldfish types for ponds
The outdoor pond in your yard will let you observe your goldfish in a natural setting. In establishing and maintaining a goldfish pond, be aware that the aquatic habitat needs of goldfish species vary. Some are tolerant of temperature changes, others are not. Also, not all species make good pond mates: Some species do not swim well with others.
This slender-bodied fish featuring bright red and crisp white colors is not the most popular selection for outdoor ponds. This native of China grows up to 18 inches — pretty large for a pond goldfish. Today’s pet-store version of the wakin is a descendent of the Chinese gibel carp. He is a friendly fish who quickly begins to surface once he learns regular feeding times. He will overwinter provided you keep a hole allowing for the exchange of oxygen drilled through the ice. This is necessary because the fish does not hibernate. He is a fast swimmer: Best pond mates are shubunkin or comet goldfish.
Comet goldfish feature yellow, orange, red or white solid-colored bodies. They are highly hardy: They can survive for 10 to 15 years in outdoor ponds with water temperatures kept between 65 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit. They are a single-tail fish who grow 6 to 10 inches in length.
The shubunkin goldfish is a favorite with outdoor pond enthusiasts due to a flexible yet hearty appetite that readily accepts most food sources, with vegetable-based selections being more nutritious choices. This fish features attractive calico-style patterns with mixtures of red, brown, orange and yellow colors combined with black spots. A native of Japan, this fish is an excellent match for most goldfish species other than the telescope and the bubble-eye, who swim at much slower speeds.
As indicated by his namesake, the black moor sports black as his only coloring. But that does not mean his appearance is dull. Instead, his scales have a velvety look that glistens in the water — particularly when sunlight penetrates. His protruding eyes don’t offer the best vision. He is best off with other visually challenged species such as the telescope and the bubble-eye. Don’t place any sharp-edged decoration in the pond, as these can cut his eyes.
The fantail species is an acceptable yet slightly challenging choice for beginners. He is hardy and will tolerate a few missed feedings but not being left for extended periods in cold water. He needs to come inside during the winter in northern climates. This fish grows to 6 to 8 inches and lives up to 10 years.
The ryunkin was developed from the fantail and carries over many of his ancestor’s tolerant qualities: He isn’t a picky eater. He will consume nearly anything offered to him and even things such as aquarium plants that were not intended to be on the menu. These fish will live 10 to 15 years and grow 6 to 8 inches in length. His best pond mates are oranda, fantail or black moor goldfish. He should not be paired with single-tail varieties such as shubunkin or comet goldfish.
The oranda offers outdoor pond enthusiasts the best of both worlds: Color variety and a visually appealing body style. His coloration is a plethora of color options from red, black, calico, chocolate, deep blue and a red/white combination on either metallic or matte scales. His body features a hood or fleshy growth at the top of his head. This growth is not fully developed until he reaches 2 years of age. But once matured, the hood is his defining feature. He does not tolerate cold or dirty water conditions, making him a more challenging keeper. read further here https://animals.mom.me/varieties-goldfish-suitable-outdoor-ponds-4693.html
best goldfish food
There are so many different brands of goldfish food on the market, ranging from cans of dry food to packages of freeze-dried blood worms.
But be careful! Some brands use tons of cheap fillers in their goldfish food – fillers that don’t actually add real nutritional value. In the end, your goldfish is getting less nutrition with every bite!
While most commercial brands do strive to provide a balanced diet your goldfish need to stay healthy, the level of nutrients actually in goldfish food will vary. By simply looking at the ingredients on the back of the can, you can get a feel of how one brand compares with the next. And later, your goldfish will thank you with vibrant colors and years of entertainment.
To start with, there are several different types of food you can buy. Dry food (including flakes, pellets, sticks, and wafers) are the most used and marketed goldfish food available.
Dry Goldfish Food
Simply browse through the fish aisle at your local pet store, and you’ll see dozens of commercial goldfish food cans on display, most of which are dry food. Some are specially formulated to sink in the water, while others naturally float at the top of the aquarium.
Flakes are known to float at the water surface, while pellets often sink to the gravel below (though not always – you can buy pellets that float as well).
So which should you buy – floating flakes or sinking pellets?
Goldfish graze at both the top and bottom of the aquarium. Though, they do spend most of their time energetically sifting through the substrate for any tasty tidbits they might have missed. Unless your goldfish are sick or sensitive to buoyancy problems, both floating and sinking food will do just fine.
If you have sensitive fancy goldfish, I highly recommend soaking dry food before feeding. Dry food expands as it absorbs water. If your goldfish eats a pellet before it expands, intestines may get clogged. To make goldfish food easier to digest, simply fill a cup with aquarium water and soak the dry food for 5 to 10 seconds before feeding. Green veggies can also help digestion (we’ll talk more about these later).
Sick goldfish will usually only touch food that sinks to the bottom.
It’s always good to have sinking pellets on hand to make sure all of your fishy friends get a bite. Since floating dry food can cause goldfish to suck in packets of air, some fish hobbyists only offer their goldfish sinking pellets to avoid problems – like buoyancy and swim bladder issues (which fancy goldfish are especially prone to).
Floating dry food has its advantages though. Flakes and floating pellets are easier to manage. Since they can be quickly removed after the feeding period, they won’t accidentally get caught under rocks and pollute the water.
Ultimately the brand of goldfish food you choose is up to you. If you have trouble making up your mind, you can always feed your goldfish both floating flakes and sinking pellets (variety is always a good way to go). full article here
What kind of fish can live with goldfish?
Goldfish rarely prey on rosy barbs and live harmoniously with them.
If you have a large tank, loaches do well with goldfish because they
also thrive in cool water and grow too large to be considered prey. Zebra danios will cohabitate with common goldfish, but are too
small to be kept with fancy or larger varieties.
Can I put two goldfish in the same tank?
A goldfish tank needs AT THE MINIMUM 10 – 20 gallons per fish. Plus, bowls do not allow for filtration which is a MUST. In a bowl, a goldfish may live a max of a few years.
In a properly sized tank, they grow to be up to 12 inches long, not counting the fins!
What size tank do I need for 2 goldfish?
Recommended goldfish tank sizes: Fancy goldfish: 3 feet long and a
volume of at least 20 gallons for one goldfish.
If you plan to keep more than one goldfish in your tank then add an extra 10 gallons for each additional fish. Common goldfish: 4 feet long and a volume of at least 30 gallons
How many gallons does a goldfish need?
Too much amonia in a tank is deadly to fish. The rule most experts suggest is 20 gallons for one goldfish and 10 gallons more per other goldfish. I have a 40 gallon goldfish tank with only 3 fantail goldfish in it.
Reference from Encyclopedia of Aquarium and Pond fish D Alderton DK 208
Also, the koi pond plants remove nitrogen that exists in the water,
along with phosphates which makes them a great filtering system.
free floating so more difficult to protect from nibbling koi. Water Hyacinth. Water Lettuce. Water Lily. Lotus. Water Poppy. Umbrella Plant. Water Iris. Horsetail.
Here are some of the most effective clear water plants. Oxygenating Pond Plants. Floating Pond Plants.
Variegated Water Celery. Water Iris. Water Cress. Pickerel Plant. Taro. Water Lilies.
The best plants for a koi or goldfish pond, including information on
top plant species, plant benefits, planting advice, and how to stop koi eating
Do koi ponds need plants?
Aquatic plants are considered an excellent addition to any koi pond. Aquatic plants, in fact, help increase oxygen production in the
water, helping to keep the pond properly aerated for koi. …
The shade plants provide reduces incoming light into the pond and
thus limits photosynthesis of algae.
What plants are good for fish ponds?
Creeping Jenny Pond Plants. Often used as a ground cover in terrestrial gardens, Creeping Jenny fares excellently when used in water gardening applications. … Pickerel Pond Plants. … Horsetail Pond Plants. … Taro Pond Plants. … Cardinal Flower. … Water Lettuce. … Mosaic Plant. … Blue Irishornwort
Hornwort- is a very popular submerged aquatic plant among the aquarium enthusiasts due to their hair like foliage and hardiness.
It is also known as Coontail, cedar moss, fish blankets, horn weed,
morass weed, rigid hornwort etc.
It is native to North America but it has now a worldwide distribution due to the aquarium and pond trade.
It occurs in ponds, lakes, ditches, quiet streams and marshes with
moderate to high nutrient levels where the water bottom contains
mud, some sand or rocky materials.
It generally occupies 0.5 to 15.5m depth ranges of the water body. It has muscular and hair-like foliage that helps oxygenate and
clarify the water as well as keep algae growth to a minimum.
Nelumbo nucifera, also known as Indian lotus, sacred lotus, bean of
India, Egyptian bean or simply lotus, is one of two extant species of
aquatic plant in the family Nelumbonaceae. Wikipedia
Do Koi eat plants?
Plants for Koi Ponds. … This is because koi are omnivores and eat plants.
This is not so much a problem when putting koi in an established pond with many plants already in it.
But, it can be a big problem when adding a few plants to an established koi pond.
How do I make my pond water clear naturally?
Use a biological filter. A biological filter uses bacteria to remove
organic waste that can accumulate in your pond. .
.. Add barley straw to your pond. As barley straw decomposes, it
releases a chemical that prevents algae from growing. …
Add plants to the pond.
How to choose Pond plants in your garden ponds landscaping
koi pond plants As well as enhancing the look of a pond, pond plants help to maintain water
quality, providing a healthy environment for the fish.
The choice of plants will partly depend on the style of pond—a naturalistic pond looks best when heavily planted
around the edges so that it blends seamlessly into its environment, while a contemporary look may be best achieved with more minimalist planting.
A well-balanced, healthy koi pond must contain two types of plant: oxygenators , which release oxygen into the water, and floating plants , which provide shelter from sunlight.
Without these, or an efficient filtration system, the water in the koi pond can become overgrown with algae, which not only turns the water green, but can also affect the health of some fish species, such as Sterlets
Plants in the body of the pond also absorb nitrate— the product of the breakdown of fish waste—which lessens the burden on the filtration system.
Incorporating plants into a koi pond is not Incorporating plants into a koi pond is not straightforward,partly because of the depth of water, and also because koi have a habit of digging up plants and browsing on the growing shoots.
Most koi ponds, therefore, simply incorporate a few tall marginals, and perhaps some water lilies, whose leaves help to protect the fish from sunburn in the clear water.
Planting In a new pond, wait several days after filling before putting the plants in place, to allow the water temperature to rise to that of the environment.
Pot plants as necessary (see opposite), having first inspected them closely for any signs of disease or pests.
In temperate areas, spring is the best time to introduce new pond plants into an existing pond, because aquatic plants start to grow rapidly at this time.
If the pond is large, you may need waders to put plants in place, and special pond gloves should always be worn.
These reach up to your shoulders and provide protection against waterborne diseases, such as Weil’s disease a potentially serious condition, spread by rodents, which causes jaundice.
TYPES OF KOI POND PLANTS
Plants for the pond can be divided into four categories, based on their growing habits and where in the pond they are to be found.
Oxygenating pond plants, water lilies,and floating pond plants are truly aquatic, growing in or under the water.
Marginal plants are a useful addition to the pond, not only as a decorative element,but also to provide an excellent habitat for insects.
Traditional, formal ponds often incorporate lowgrowing plants, such as water lilies, which do not mask the crisp, neat edges of the pond.
Small ponds often benefit from the inclusion of taller, more architectural plants, such as reeds and grasses, which lift the eye, making the pond appear larger.
Three varieties of water lily (Nymphaea ‘Escarboucle’, ‘William Falconer’, and Marliacea Albida’) adorn this large, formal pond, which is bordered by the tall, elegant spikes of Iris laevigata ‘Variegata’, Canna flaccida, and Schoenoplectus lacustris.
Myriophyllum verticillatum covers one corner of the pond.
The vertical emphasis of the planting in this courtyard pond, achieved through the use of tall marginals, such as irises and rushes, enhances
the geometric lines of this modern style, while a single water lily (Nymphaea ‘Gladstoneana’) softens the look and provides cover for the fish.
Creative landscaping Edging around a pond strengthens its perimeter and helps to disguise the edge of the pond liner.
It can also prolong the life of the liner by shielding it from sunlight.
Hard construction materials, such as paving slabs or bricks, laid around the edge of a pond give a more formal look,
while natural stone or sod are ideal for a more informal pond. Another possibility is a wooden deck raised above water level,
but the wood must first be treated with a nontoxic preservative to keep it from warping or rotting.
Consider the access to the pond: if this is across a lawn, regular foot traffic can quickly result in an unsightly muddy trail.
If you do not want to construct a path, set paving slabs into the grass as an informal solution.
The planting and landscaping around the pond can be used to disguise pond equipment. An external filter, for example,
can be hidden in vegetation in a flowerbed, although it must still be easily accessible for routine maintenance and servicing.
Moving water A fountain is an attractive addition to any pond, and also creates a healthier environment for the fish by improving the water’s oxygen content.
Water lilies prefer calm water, however, and will not thrive under the jet of a fountain, so they need to be located at the opposite end of the pond.
Water currents created by the fountain can waft floating plants to one side of the pond; before adding plants, test
the flow by floating a light plastic ball on the surface of the water while the koi pond fountain is operating.
If the ball drifts away from where you want the plants to be, adjust the positioning of the fountain.
Oriental-style koi ponds often incorporate bridges and decorative features of Japanese life, such as bonsai trees and
this popular style of bamboo water fountain (left). Japanese maples create a striking backdrop to the pond, and can be grown in pots or in the ground.
Reference from Encyclopedia of Aquarium and Pond Fish D Aldeton DK 2008
hardy pond plants
Hardy Pond Plants. Hornwort, Bundle of 5. 3.4. Frogbit, Bundle of 3. 4.0. Water Hyacinth, Bundle of 3. 4.3. Grower’s Choice Hardy Water Lilies. 4.2. Virginalis Hardy Water Lily. Red Stemmed Parrots Feather, Bundle of 5. Jumbo Water Hyacinth, Bundle of 3. Pickerel Rush, Bundle of 2.
Will pond plants survive winter?
No other varieties will survive the winter. After their leaves turn brown, hardy marginals (bog plants) can be trimmed back.
Never cut plants with hollow stems off below the water level,
because they will die if completely submerged (cattails, rush, and pickerel rush).
Will water lettuce survive winter?
Unless you live in a climate that doesn’t freeze, floating plants like
hyacinth and water lettuce won’t survive the winter. …
If you leave them in the pond, the dead plants will decompose and
cause water quality issues through the wintertime.
How do you overwinter tropical water lilies?
Tropical Water Lilies
Keep them actively growing by placing them in warm water with bright light and warmth.
It will be difficult to maintain a minimum water temperature of 21°C (70°F). …
Over-winter a tropical Lily by letting the tuber go dormant. Leave the plant in the pond until after a killing frost.
Do water lilies die off in winter?
Although tropical water lilies do go dormant in winter, they are
only hardy to about USDA Hardiness Zone 9.
They will freeze and die if left in a cold pond over winter. … You can move your water lilies to smaller pots for the winter, if you like. Lift the plant and trim back some of the leaves and roots
Your family is expanding to include a dog and koi fish. You are over the moon with glee over the new addition(s), but you are nervous about how they will get along.
Do dogs like koi fish? Do koi fish like dogs? Will they live in harmony together? What should I add to the pond to keep birds of prey away? What happens if my dog does eat my koi fish?
All of these are common questions, and all will be answered thoroughly. Here is your ultimate guide to having both a dog and koi fish as pets.
What should I know about koi fish?
First things first: Let’s talk about the benefits of having a koi fish.
While they may not always be deemed a classic pet, those who bring them into the family fall for their charm. In an outdoor garden pond or aquarium, koi fish can be an incredibly calming addition.
While many people think they are related to goldfish, koi fish are actually more closely related to the common carp.
Koi fish can grow very large. In fact, with proper care, koi fish can grow up to be somewhere between two and three feet in length. So, if you are thinking of introducing a koi fish into an existing pond, then you need to think carefully about whether or not your pond is large enough to sustain a full-grown koi.
Additionally, on average, a pet koi will survive to be between 20 to 30 years old. However, it has been recorded that some koi live for more than 200 years! Can you imagine that?
In order for your koi fish to live a long time and to have a healthy life, they must exist in a healthy environment that boasts high-grade filtration and water quality, and no sharp edges as they can injure themselves.
How do you make sure your koi fish aren’t stressed? Ensure that the water quality is right, there are no parasites around, and that they have plenty of space to swim around.
You may be surprised to hear, but koi fish are so friendly that they may even break the surface to say hello to you. If they do, pat them on the head and hand feed them.
How do dogs usually act when seeing a koi pond?
Generally, upon first seeing a koi pond, dogs have the urge to shoot around it and examine the sturdiness of the stones around the side. You should absolutely let them do this, in order to get them comfortable with having it in the back garden.
While running around, your puppy or dog may also sniff at the water, and maybe even jump around on the rocks and in the streams. Eventually, dogs will grow confident enough to jump into the pond, except of course, if they hate water, like cats.
Cats notably hate water, and even if they rest along the edge of your pond, they won’t have sufficient support or ability to stretch all the way into the pond and grab a fish. That being said, both cats and dogs will perch and watch fish for hours as if hypnotized.
Will my dog eat my koi fish?
To be clear, yes, most dogs will consume a koi fish if they witness an available opportunity. Let’s say that a koi fish is out of the pond, flopping around on the grass; you better believe that your dog is going to go and investigate (and perhaps get a mid-afternoon snack).
However, most dogs won’t put in the necessary effort required to actually catch koi from a pond. And, even if they do attempt to, the majority of dogs will be incredibly unsuccessful.
Only if a dog has incredible hunting abilities and speedy reaction times will he or she be able to grasp and devour your koi from the pond.
The most likely scenario is that your dog chooses to sit for hours looking into the pond and watching the koi. When you first introduce your dog to the koi pond, take the time to examine how he or she acts to be able to adequately ascertain whether he or she is sincerely pursuing the koi, or merely enthralled by their beautiful color and graceful movement.
How do I hinder my dog from eating my koi fish?
That being said, you want to take as many security measures as possible for preventing your dog from eating your koi fish. The steps you need to exert will depend on your particular dog and how they tend to behave.
Install a special mesh netting placed across the pond. It will not only protect your fish from your dog, but also from a variety of predators. The downside to this is that some dogs may get themselves trapped in the net.
Opt to install motion sensors that emit sound or streams of water when something (your dog) approaches. This tends to startle dogs and stops them from going any further into the pond.
Have sprinklers around the pond that can be set to begin at regular intervals.
If my dog does eat my koi fish, will he be safe?
Just for a worst-case scenario: If your dog does manage to eat a koi fish, what will happen?
Well, koi fish aren’t necessarily harmful to your dog; in fact, they contain protein and oils that will be beneficial for your dog. However, the small bones inside the koi fish will be the issue. These small bones can be very dangerous for dogs as they may become stuck in their throat and damage their stomach and intestinal tract.
If your dog consumes any kind of raw fish, this can lead to diarrhea and vomiting. Furthermore, if the koi fish had a parasite, this will also be transferred to your dog.
In other words, you really don’t want your dog to be consuming your koi fish.
Will my dog protect my koi fish?
One of the benefits of having a dog and koi fish is that your dog may actually protect the pond. As long as he or she doesn’t consider hunting and eating the koi fish, then your dog will most likely shoo away other animals who want to.
For example, herons and racoons regularly target koi in small ponds as they are such easy prey. But, if your dog barks or chases these birds and animals away, then they are a lot less likely to come back and attempt to snatch a morning meal.
A dog can actually be a beneficial addition to your koi pond security force!
Should I add a fish cave to the pond?
Every homeowner with a koi fish pond should opt to have at least one fish cave or “koi house” placed inside it. Both of these additions give your koi fish a location to retreat to in order to shelter themselves from predators.
A koi house is usually a sturdy mesh cage that lies on the bottom of your pond, while a fish cave is virtually concealed from sight in some part of the pond. Both of these cages and caves can also be placed underwater and will work as a hideaway spot for your koi fish, just in case your dog or another animal does invade the pond.
If a predator approaches your pond, the koi will swim into their cage or cave, and remain there until the predator leaves.
You should definitely add at least one of these areas for your koi fish, just in case your dog does decide to show off his swimming skills.
What else should I add to the pond to ensure the safety of my koi fish?
Even if you don’t have a dog, you still really need to put in some effort and planning for ways to protect your koi pond from other predators. Luckily, there are a lot of tried and tested manners through which you can do this.
In addition to rock caves, you should look into adding these to your koi pond.
● Mechanical and biological filter
One of the most significant problems that your koi fish may encounter is parasites. These bacteria can be lethal for your koi fish, and it is crucial that you do your best to keep them protected. In order to keep the parasites at bay, install a good mechanical and biological filter in your pond to ensure your fish remain protected from parasites and other diseases such as fin rot and ulcers.
● Natural bacterial sponges
By adding natural bacterial sponges (such as Anacharis plants) to your koi pond, you will encourage healthy bacteria to grow.
● Floating mesh
One of the easiest ways to prevent predators from grabbing your beautiful fish is to purchase some floating mesh. This UV resistant black polypropylene material ties around the edge of your pond and will be almost invisible. So it won’t block your sight of the pond, but it will mean that other animals can’t stretch into it.
● An electric fence
If you are really concerned about the safety of your koi fish, then you may want to add an electric fence around the edges of your pond. If you are considering this, keep in mind that an electric fence can be incredibly dangerous for children and dogs and is still useless when it comes to birds of prey.
● A scarecrow
One of the oldest tricks in the book, if you live in an area with a lot of birds of prey, you may want to put up a scarecrow near the pond. Whether you DIY it at home or you purchase it from a store, a scarecrow is always an effective way to scare off birds. However, other animals may become used to it, and therefore it won’t hinder them too much.
Do koi enjoy residing with other fish?
As a matter of fact, koi are actually very gentle, social fish and they very much enjoy living in pairs or groups. If you want to add other breeds of fish to the pond, you can be assured that the koi will be welcoming and won’t try to eat or fight with the new additions.
However, if you are considering adding other breeds of fish, you need to make sure that they will be just as friendly back to the koi fish.
Also, keep in mind that the new fish require the same habitat as your koi and that their nutritional requirements are the same.
How do I ensure they live in harmony?
If you follow all these above tips, there is a very good chance that your dog and your koi fish will be able to live in absolute harmony together. While it may take a little bit of time (and trust) between the two of them, your dog will eventually begin to accept the pond and the fish that are swimming around in it.
Just like with anything you add to their scenery, over time, the koi pond will become familiar to your dog, and they will lose interest. They may even stop staring at the fish so incessantly when they realize that they aren’t going to play with them. In other words, soon enough they will be back to the ball!
So, there you have it, the ultimate guide to having a dog and koi fish as pets! As you can hopefully tell, it isn’t impossible to have both, and with a few precautions in place, your family can include both a four-legged furry friend and an elegant finned friend.
Do you have a dog and koi fish? What are your experiences regarding getting them to live in harmony? Do you have any tips or tricks? Let us know in the comments below! We would love to hear from you!
Farah Al-Khojai is the Managing Partner of Pet’s Delight. A passionate entrepreneur, Farah holds a Bsc in Government from the London School of Economics. She is always on the lookout for new opportunities to develop and grow the pet and equestrian retail and wholesale market in the UAE and beyond, and is proud to be at the helm of the first and the largest pet care provider in the market representing world-class brands including Orijen, Applaws, Hunter, Savic, Flamingo, Ruffwear and Rogz.
Koi Diseases How to diagnose and treat common koi fish diseasesKoi fish are very hardy, robust fish and don’t often once become sick once they have settled into the koi pond.koi disease occurs in ponds as fish fall prey to parasitic,
bacterial or fungal attacks.The causes of koi fish diseases varied and can range from a sudden
drop in water temperature, predator attacks and spawning to name a few.No matter what the cause of the koi diseases, one thing remains
constant – the sooner you recognize and begin to treat the problem
…the more likely you will be successful treating the koi diseases.Regular pond maintenance and water-quality checks
help keep diseases away from fish, but illnesses still
occur, even in the best-kept ponds.The first sign of a problem may be a fish floating at the surface, by
which time it is probably too late for effective treatment.For this reason, it is vital to set up a routine for examining
fish; feeding time provides an ideal opportunity to
check their appearance and behavior.So how do you know if you have a sick koi fish? Sometimes the signs
that a fish is sick are very subtle, such as one fish segregating itself
away from other fish, or not eating very much.As time passes and the koi disease gets worse, the symptoms become more obvious and may spread to other fish.
The health of pond fish influenced by environmental
conditions.During spells of hot weather, for example, evaporation can lower
water levels, which has the effect of concentrating dissolved nitrogenous waste.Atthe same time, elevated temperatures drive oxygen out of the
water; the combination of nitrate and oxygen stress can be
fatal, especially for larger fish.Many of these problems can avoided by topping off
water levels during the summer, and incorporating a
pump and filter; these improve water quality, break down waste,
and increase oxygen content by creating water movement.Overstocking a pond, especially if it is not well established, places
great stress on its occupants, and fish may succumb to usually
benign bacteria that are present in the water.Overfeeding is another common environmental problem,
especially in temperate areas in the spring and fall; uneaten food
decomposes in the water, encouraging populations of pathogens.It turns out that Koi is quite hardy for ornamental fish. But, on
several occasions when there is irregularity in water quality, things
may become quite rough for them.Among the most major disease for Koi is Ich parasite or white spot disease.This disease will make the fish look like they have been
sprinkled with white salt all over their body.This parasite will attach to the skin, and eat them alive for several
weeks before they detach themselves and move to other host.There are several disease affecting them as other fish, but there is
one virus, which affected Koi and common carp but not other species.That viral disease called Koi herpesvirus (KHV) or cyprinid herpesvirus 3. Most of the fish infected with this virus will die but some may survive.Those who survive will be the carrier and may send the viral
infection to other non-infected fish.In this case, most of the breeders that have Koi diagnosed with KHV
in their farm will need to take harsh action to cut all the population to avoid the spreading.
fish diseases pictures
Gill rot fish diseases pictures
This disease occurs the most of all the koi diseases.Irrespective of conditions of breeding or sizes of koi, it occurs.It often does at high temperature above 20 degrees centigrade, but
sometimes below the temperature, tooThe disease advances . before the diseased koi fish loses its weight, it dies, that is before the fish shows any symptom, it dies.In such a case if you open the gill, you will find red gill filaments turn grey or muddy, or some of them broken.The germ is columnaris. Its treatment is oral administration of sulfadrugs or antibiotic substances or a medicated bath of furan drugs.Aquatic terramycin is very useful
fish diseases pictures Anchor worm disease
Red swellings appear under the scales.When the tip of a swelling pulled, a worm with an anchor-shaped top comes out.The worms stick to fins, mouths and the hypoderm.Sometimes fifty or sixty worms live on a fish and weaken it to death.Dipterex is efficacious to exterminate them.
fish diseases pictures raised scales
Liquid stays under the scales and puses them up.
The scales bristle up. liquid stays also in the abdomen and the body swells. The diseased koi fish looks like a pine cone.First a part of the body affected, but gradualy the disease spreads all over the body. Eyes of the diseased koi fish protrude.It breathes hard, swimming around in crazy manner.After a day or two the fish dies, overtunring on its back.The Doitsu happens to affected by the disease, but it recoversIts causes supposed to be some bacteria, interruption in blood
circulation caused by a disease blood vessel or internal orga, some
medicines and excessive eating of live foods.It occurs often in the spring when oxidized pupae given to koi.When the water temperature is high, it breaks out. Any fish, either fry or adult, affected in dirty water.Sulfa drugs, anitbiotics and furan drugs are efficacious. It is also helpful to break blisters and apply monafracin with Dipterex to the part.It is important to find the disease in its earl stage, otherwise it will be difficult to cure it.White spot disease
Small white spots appear all over the body. They increase gradually and the body seems to be covered with the white powder.
The extreme case is that the outer layer of the skin comes off and the diseased koi grows weak to death.
Its germ is Ichthyophthirus, about 0.7 millimeter long, egg-shaped. Treatment for the disease is a medicated bath of franese for seven days.
About one-month-old fry are apt to be affected. by Myxospridea just after they begin to be fed artificial bait.
A gill opens wide and shows red swollen gill filaments. The diseased fish breathes agonizingly and dies.
The disease spreads rapidly and many fries die. It the disease heals, the jaws of the affected koi will be deformed.
Koi older than two years old are not affected by it because they are immune against it.
The cause is Myxospridea. No medicine is efficacious against it.
For prevention the water of the pond is to be disinfected with
malachite green early June and minced fresh meat of aan immunized
koi aginst Myxopridea is to be given to the koi in the pond. It will be carried on for a week.
This treatment is effective enve after a koi becomes ill. The blood of teh minced koi prevents Mixospridea from growning.
Abrasion, Aquatic mold, Aquatic germ, Coton coverThe germs have many mycelia of which bottom parts stay inside the skin of a diseased koi fish.The upper parts live in the water. They look like fur. The extreme case is that they enter deep inside, and the fish grows weak and dies after two to seven days.The disease often breaks out in a pond where too many fish are put or the water is dirty.Weak or wounded koi are easily affected by the disease. Its germs are Sapro legniasis and Achlyasis.Treatment for the disease is to wash and remove the germs in 1.5 to 2.5 NaCl solution.Remove the fur-like mycelia and apply 2% mercurochrome to the affected part.Then put the koi fish in a medicated bath of monafuracin for fish. A medicated bath ofNitrofurazone is also efficacious
How do you treat fungus on fish?
Treat for 5 consecutive days. Repeat until symptoms clear.Secondary infections are also common and can be treated with
antibiotics or general cures like Tetra Ick® Guard® or Tetra® Fungus Guard®.Consistent temperature and good water quality
will help prevent infections, in addition to using aquarium salt. learn more at http://www.tetra-fish.comCan salt cure fish fungus?This is the reason that body fungus infections are not seen on saltwater fish.Adding 1 tablespoon of noniodized rock salt to each gallon of water is helpful in effecting a cure. …Salt will kill aquarium plants and snails, but this should not be a
problem if you are treating the infected fish in a separate container.What keeps fungus from growing on fish’s body?Prevention. You can easily prevent body fungus. The fungi that cause this disease are considered “opportunistic” infections.This means that the fungi lives in most aquarium water, and even
on the skin of most aquarium fish, without causing disease.Is fungus on fish contagious?Because fungus is not contagious, infected fish can be moved to a
quarantine tank for treatment away from other livestock.This is the recommended approach for systems where some of the
livestock are intolerant of antifungal medications.What causes fungus on fish?The infection is usually caused by the fungus Branchiomyces and
can cause the entire gill to rot away.Infections usually occur in stressed fish that are living in tanks with
high levels of ammonia or nitrate.How do you treat fish fungus in a pond?Make an un-iodized salt dip by using Pond Salt (available at your local pond retailer).Dissolve 2.5 cupfuls of Pond Salt in 10 U.S. gallons of pond water making a 2.0% solution.Gently place fish in a soft nylon net, then lower them into the salt dip for 5 to 10 minutes, no longer.Fish lice disease A koi with fish lice swims as if it were jumping in water, scrubs itself
against rocks or swims along the walls of the pond.Being examined closely, it has worms about 5 millimeters long and 3 millimeters wide often on fins.They make the fish weak and causes some other diseases of which it dies.The technical term of a fish louse is Argulus foliaccus. It can be exterminated by Dipterex
Bladder diseaseA koi with this disease struggles to go up to the surface, sinks down to the bottom or turns itself upside down.It loses the sense of equilibrium and cannot swim in a normal position.The causes are that swelled intestines press the air bladder because
of indigestion, that indigestion makes the body weak as the
temperature falls and that fatty degeneration of an air bladder.It is difficult to cure it. Tumor of reproductive organsHuge koi are apt to be affected by the disease.The diseased koi has a large tumor in its abdomen which gradually
gets larger and affects the skin Finally the tumor breaks and the fish dies.Especially the tumor in the first half of the body seems to be malignant.It is a malignant tumor of the genital gland. Particles like cancer virus are found in it.The tumor should be found and removed in its early stage. Examination of the texture is necessary as soon as it is found.Spinal paralysisAgricultural chemicals such as Dipterex, over-feeding or electric
shocks from the submersible pump motor or lighting cause koi spinal paralysis.They become crooked. It is difficult to cure it, but sometimes it heals naturally.Keeping the diseased fish in a large pond is an effective treatment. Gas bubble diseaseIt occurs when the water temperature is high in the summer. Fry often suffer from it in green water.Gas bubbles appear on the head or the fins and sometimes eyes
protrude, supersaturation of oxygen in water causes the disease.It can be prevented by adding water to the pond or making a shade over it.When aeration or heating is working in a tank, they must be well-controlled not to cause the disease. Dystrophy of the backThe back of a diseased koi caves in along the dorsal fin. The line of the backbone shows itself clearly.Its mortality rate is not high. Koi affected by the disease are weak against oxygen shortage or wintering.They are apt to get scraped or molded. The cause is said to be degenerate fat of pupae.A report tells the disease resembles men’s sugar diabetes pathologically.Vitamin E drugs are used for its treatment but it is very difficult to cure it.