Posted on

betta fish care how to care for a betta fish you need to know

betta fish care how to care for a betta fish you need to know

betta fish care learn how to grow betta fish and breed them successfully


ORIGINS Southeast Asia, occurring in Thailand, althoughbetta fish care
its exact range is uncertain.

SIZE 21⁄4 in (6 cm).

DIET Prepared foods and live foods.

WATER Temperature 75–82°F (24–28°C); soft

(50–100 mg/l) and acidic (pH 6.0–6.5).


TEMPERAMENT Males are aggressive toward each other.
Siamese Fighting Fish
Betta splendens


The Siamese Fighting Fish is also referred to as the Betta, particularly in North America.This species was widely kept in Thailand for more than 200 years before it became known in the West in the late 1800s.

In their homeland, where they frequent the canals, or klongs, that flow through many Thai cities,

Siamese Fighting Fish were selectively bred not only for their color but also for their fighting ability, with significant amounts of money being bet on the outcome of contests between the more aggressive males.

Different strains evolved from cross-breeding fish obtained from various parts of Thailand.

As a result, it is now practically impossible to be certain of the original distribution of these fish, or of their natural coloration, even though alleged “wild type” specimens are occasionally offered for sale.

Current thinking is that wild forms were originally dark red, probably with bluish streaking on their fins and a pair of vertical lines on the side of the head behind the eyes.

Certainly, the wild ancestors of today’s Siamese Fighting Fish had simpler fins than those seen in modern strains.

It is likely that interest in keeping these fish for fighting purposes began not in Thailand, but in neighboring Cambodia (Kampuchea).

In fact, the Thai name for these fish is pla kat khmer, which translates as “fin-biter in Khmer” (Khmer is a former name of Cambodia). Since being introduced to the West,

however, breeders have concentrated on establishing a wide range of color forms, ranging from white through yellow to purple.

Selective breeding has also been used to modify the fins, which are always more elaborate in the males.

With the exception of the female Half-Moon Betta, pictured below left, all the specimens shown here are male.

In Thailand, it is traditional to house Siamese Fighting Fish in small jars, but these provide little swimming space and make it difficult to maintain the water quality.

The natural grace and elegance of the fish will be more apparent in an aquarium.

A single male can be kept in a tank with several females, or even as part of a community aquarium.

However, avoid mixing these fish with fin-nipping species, which will attack the flowing fins, or with fish of a similar coloration, which may themselves be attacked by the Siamese Fighting Fish.

These fish are easy to care for, but they are not especially long-lived, with an average lifespan of about two years. Pairs of seven or eight months old are best for breeding

.They need a relatively shallow spawning tank, about 8 in (20 cm) deep.

It must be covered and include floating plants, among which the male will build a bubble-nest.

Thai breeders often add the leaves of the Ketapang or Indian almond tree (Terminalia catappa) to assist with the conditioning of the water.

These leaves are available in the West through specialist suppliers.

Raising the water temperature can trigger spawning, as can increasing the amount of livefood in the diet.

Check that the female is in breeding condition, because otherwise, the male may harass her.

Aside from her slightly swollen belly, one of the surest indicators of the female’s readiness to spawn is when she develops yellowish stripes on her body.

She will actively seek out the male at this stage, rather than trying to avoid him


breeding betta fish

These are  the videos below of the step by step process in breeding betta fish

Step 1. place the male and female betta fish container near each other for them to see each other and be acquainted and feed them plenty of live foods like mosquito larvae, brine shrimp or daphnia.

observe if the male will build a bubble nest and look for the female egg spot by looking its vent there is a whitish color in the ventral area of the female that is an egg that is an indicator that the female is full of eggs and ready to spawn


Part 2 in breeding betta fish Video

Part 3 in breeding betta fish

It is the responsibility of the male Siamese Fighting Fish to construct a bubble-nest. Spawning occurs nearby, with the pair wrapping around one another.

The female will then float upside down, as though stunned, while the male collects the 15 or so eggs in its mouth and carries them to the bubble-nest.

Mating resumes once he has gathered all the eggs.

This sequence is repeated until some 500 eggs have been produced, with the entire process lasting about two hours. It is the best to remove the female while the male guards the nest, otherwise he may attack her.

If the tank is very large and well planted, however, it may be safe for her to stay put. Hatching occurs 48 hours after mating, and the young fry is free-swimming within a further four days.

Rear them on fry foods at first, and gently circulate the water with an airstone to convey food particles to them.

Powdered flake and brine shrimp can be provided as they grow.A large number of fry means that gentle filtration is needed to maintain water quality, and partial water changes are required every three days.

Once the males in the brood can be identified, usually, at about two months of age, they should be moved to individual accommodation to prevent fighting.

Prior to this, keep the aquarium covered to keep the young fish from becoming chilled, since this will impair the development of their labyrinth organs

betta fish names


My collection of betta Videos

Orange buttefrly crowntail betta

Dumbo ears juvy betta




Posted on

daphnia magna

daphnia magna

What does the Daphnia magna eat?

Daphnia are an extremely important part of aquatic food chains. They eat primary producers such as algae, yeast, and bacteria. Daphnia are the prey of tadpoles, salamanders, newts, aquatic
insects, and many types of small fish.

what to feed daphnia magna

Here is the list of my favorite food for my daphnia magna culture.

  • Bakers yeast you can purchase it from grocery store or bake shop store. I just mix it with warm water to dilute it and then sprinkle it to my daphnia magna culture.
  • Green water culture I place gunky and old water from my koi pond and place it in an empty plastic bottle container and place it under the sun this will produce green water and green water is green water or single-celled algae and Daphnia Magna will reproduce faster when eating green water.
  • Spirulina powder you can buy in your local pet store if there is no available spirulina powder in your local pet store you can purchase on the drug store. you can buy spirulina tablet and pond it with a pestle into powder form.
  • I also gave my daphnia Magna culture paprika you can buy paprica

How to create green water

  • mix 1/2 teaspoon urea to your 1 gallon old tank water or koi pond water then place under the sun wait for several days so that the urea will be consume by the planktoon before feeding it to your daphnia culture.



how to culture daphnia magna

Article has given free download at science.ousd

This is the inspiration you need to get started with live food culturing.

daphnia magna life cycle
Photo from Wikipedia

Daphnia are very interesting creatures, but they are also easy and fun to culture under the right condition.

Daphnia (daff-NEE-ah) are small freshwater crustaceans that are found on just about every continent in the world.

From the frozen artic to vernal desert pools, daphnia occupy an important niche at the lower rungs of the food web.

Most aquatic insects, amphibians, invertebrates, fish and fowl utilize daphnia as a food source.

And what an excellent food source they are! Daphnia are high in protein, vitamins A & D, and indigestible chitin (KITE-un) to aid in digestion.

Daphnids have an almost bulletproof reproductive strategy.

They have the ability to rapidly clone themselves asexually when conditions are right. When conditions deteriorate,

they have the ability to procreate sexually and produce resting cysts that can hatch when conditions improve.

Daphnia are truly hard to beat as a live food culture for tropical fish, mostly because they are so prolific and easy to culture.

There are as many ways to culture these little crustaceans, as there are people that culture them.

It really is hard to go wrong with these critters. Here are the steps to culturing daphnia:

1) Set up your green water cultures
In a pinch you can feed your Daphnia a very, very small pinch of flour or a single grain of oatmeal.

Stir the container and the Daphnia will filter feed the dissolved food in the water.

But the best food for rapid growth is green water or single-celled algae.

Take some clean plastic storage containers or old used aquariums, and place them in a spot outdoors that gets plenty of sunlight, but not too much direct sun.

Fill the containers with some gunky water vacuumed from your fish tanks, and toss in a pinch of natural fertilizer such as blood or bone meal.

Some daphnia culturists report having good luck using dissolved Miracle Grow at the rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon of water.

An old gallon milk jug is perfect for dissolving the mix. Add in some lettuces and let it rot.

Set up at least two green water containers before you buy your starter culture of daphnia.

Allow the green water cultures to become emerald green in color.

It’s a very good idea to have duplicate cultures going just in case one of them crashes.

What good is it to take a few weeks storing up a bunch of green water only to have it eaten by the daphnia in a few days?

As a rule of thumb, set up at least three times more green water than you need to house your daphnia in.

With a couple of containers equaling twelve gallons of green water, you can safely plan on supporting four gallons of daphnia culture.

A single gallon container of water can support hundreds of daphnia.

2) Prepare for the arrival of your daphnia culture
Once you have plenty of emerald green water, it is time to transfer some green water culture to the containers that will house your daphnia. To keep a constant supply of green water going, be sure to replace any green water you transfer out of the green water container with tank water or dechlorinated tap water. Try not to use all of your green water up, since it is much more work to start a new culture than it is to keep an existing one going.

For housing daphnia cultures indoors, plastic shoe or sweater boxes work well as does the standard ten-gallon tank. Outdoor cultures do well with 55-gallon drums, plastic tubs or kiddy wading pools. Just about anything that holds water and isn’t toxic can hold daphnia.

It is also a good idea to set up some smaller cultures with a number of different water conditions and different types of containers. Pint-sized drinking water bottles or 2-liter soda pop bottles work well in a pinch. The idea is to hedge your bet by placing your daphnia culture in green water, spring water, treated tap water and whatever else you can think of, to assure that at least some of the daphnia will survive. There is a remote chance that your new arrivals may not take to your green water or your containers may not be daphnia safe. It is better to be cautious by not putting all your eggs in one basket.

3) Acclimate and release the daphnia
Open the shipping box immediately. A few dead daphnia in the shipping bag is normal.

If you notice a marked difference between the temperature of the shipping bag and that of your water containers, you should float the bag for 10 to 15 minutes to equalize the temperature a bit. If both are relatively the same, you can just start divvying up the daphnia amongst the various containers at your disposal. Add a few daphnia at a time, very slowly. Do you see any instant deaths? Don’t put any more daphnia in a container that has them sinking to the bottom to die. Keep divvying them up until they are all spread out among a number of water containers. A dedicated fish room eyedropper works well for transferring the daphnia.

4) Check on your cultures daily
So your new daphnia culture made it through the night in your green water? Good for you! You can start consolidating your mini-cultures into the green water until you have at least two cultures. Again, multiple cultures will help hedge your bet should one of the cultures crash. You will have learned whether daphnia can live in your treated tap water, which is good to know. Daphnia are so sensitive to toxic water that they are used in industry to test for water pollution, sort of like canaries in a coal mine.

Check daily to make sure they have enough green water. Add more as needed, and remember to replenish any outdoor green water containers accordingly if you have them.

5) Care and feeding
If the daphnia eat your green water too fast you may need to set up another green water culture. Daphnia will also eat powdered fish food flakes, bacteria-laden water, and even infusoria from snail droppings. Hikari “First Bites”, “Liquifry”, “Spiralina Powder” and “Cyclop-Eeze” are great foods to supplement your green water as well. Care must be taken not to over feed or pollute the daphnia culture water.

Daphnia populations are known to pulse (rise and fall). A lot depends on water quality, available oxygen, light duration, and available food sources. Some trial and error and experimentation is in order with regard to light duration, added air bubblers and amount of food to offer. By and large, leaving the light on all the time will help promote algae and bacteria in the culture, and an air bubbler (no airstone!) will keep water circulating. The ambient temperature should be kept in a range that is comfortable for people. Outdoor cultures can be pretty much left to their own devices.

If you fear your culture is crashing (you start to see a lot of dead daphnia), remove 10% of your culture water. Then add fresh conditioned water and some food to the container. Also, harvest some of the daphnia to start a new culture, and/or provide a heavy feeding for your fish.

Here is a video of a daphnia moina

moina eggs for sale

where to buy daphnia?  You can buy at eBay or any online aquarium websites that sells  daphnia eggs starter culture and live daphnia culture or buy from us. currently, our daphnia eggs for sale is only moina eggs for sale  


Posted on

How to keep koi fish alive in winter (Winterizing Your Koi Pond)

how to keep a pond from freezing without electricity

how to keep a pond from freezing without electricity

how to keep a pond from freezing without electricity

Here are some answers from

  • Mark Goodwillie-If you have a faucet and have public water, you can allow it to drip.

This brings in new water which comes from a pipe that is buried in the ground normally below the frost line.

That is the depth in your area that doesn’t freeze during the Winter.

Of course, in an extremely cold prolonged period, the ground can freeze to a deeper level and freeze your pipes.

If you have sunlight, put a container of water inside your car. The light will heat the air inside and keep the water from freezing.


Alex Rodd– One option is to put it near a source of heat. For instance, you could build a fire under a water tank or install steam tracing on a water pipe.

Another option is to insulate, although this can only delay freezing if the water is static.

If the water doesn’t need to be pure, you can mix it with another chemical to lower its freezing point.

A suitable antifreeze might be alcohol or glycol.


Barry Scheps-If you’re referring to the water in your PIPES, within a cool or poorly-insulated house…we used to shut off the water heater and allow the cold and hot water taps to run at a “trickle” whenever the temperature outdoors dropped into the teens or below.

That worked at my grandmother’s house during my childhood years!

If you don’t mind spending the money, you could also get your walls professionally insulated

(the insulation should be applied to the sides of the water pipes facing the OUTdoors or siding of the house!).
Naturally, this would also save you money in house-heating-cost

Winter is coming, and this will be the first Winter that you go through with your Koi pond.

Think of Winter as a down period for your pond, as less events happen during Winter then any other time.

However, there are special precautions that you need to take before Winter arrives, to ensure that your koi pond and fish survive.

Clean Up- Take about a weekend to completely go over your pond. Clean up and unwanted bulk material in and around your pond.

Inside your pond, clean up all leaves, slit, and other material from the bottom.

Also, remove any plants or flowers that will not make it through the winter. Around the pond, clean up anything that can blow into your pond, as you are not likely to notice this debris until the end of winter.

Taking the time to make sure that as much debris is removed as possible will prevent potentially harmful bacteria and parasites in the future.

Stop Feeding- You must remember to stop feeding your Koi during the winter. When fall begins and the temperatures hover around 55 to 60 degrees, only feed once a day.

Once the temperatures drop below 50 degree for the first time, stop feeding completely. Even if the temperature goes above 50 degrees, still reframe from feeding your fish.

The majority of Koi fish, when healthy and the temperature is above 50 degrees, take at least four days to completely digest food.

If you mistakenly feed your fish to late the food will not digest and will end up killing your fish. Do not mistake you Koi as hungry when they open to their mouths to you.

This is more of a learned reflex then hunger. If you are concerned about not feeding them, remember that fish eat other things besides the food you provide them, especially if your pond contains a large amount of natural plant life.

If they are at all hungry and you are not feeding them, they will fill up on this.

Check Up- Do you seasonal check up on all your equipment. This includes everything from your koi pond filtration system to your store of preventable medications.

Since the majority of ponds in the world lie dormant during the Winter, you are less likely to be able to find the products you need.

Make sure your emergency kit is ready and up to date, which should include medications, bags, nets, and your water testing kits.

Prepare For Cold Weather- Prepare for cold weather by investing in the items you will need during the summer.

Koi have been known to withstand constant temperatures as low 39 degrees, and temperatures slightly lower then 39 degrees, for short periods of time.

When buying a heater, remember to research what size you will need to adequately heat your pond during the winter, otherwise ice will still form, causing potentially dangerous amounts of gas in the water, due to it being trapped under the ice.

In extreme events, it may be a good idea to have an emergency tank inside available.

Turn Off All Water Sources- In colder temperatures, your koi pond heater will be working hard to maintain a water temperature suitable enough to keep your fish alive.

If you have water features such as waterfalls, streams, or constant moving fountains, make sure to turn them off during Winter.

These features will circulate water and constantly bring new, and cold water into your pond. With these switched off, the only water that your heater will be responsible for is the standing water in your pond.

how to keep a pond from freezing without electricity how deep should a koi pond be for winter

Winters can be harsh in places where koi originate, and today’s established koi varieties are hardy enough to spend
the winter in an outdoor pond in all but the coldest climates.

An outdoor koi pond must be sufficiently deep, however, to ensure that the fish will not become trapped in any ice
that forms.

Pond heaters can help to prevent the surface from freezing over. As water temperatures drop, koi spend more time at the bottom of the pond, and start to eat less.

Young fish may be better housed in an aquarium over the winter, since spending time in this torpid state temporarily
slows their rate of growth.

Hot weather also brings its hazards. Increasing water temperature can reduce the amount of oxygen in the koi pond to dangerously low levels.

Evaporation increases and the pond is likely to require regular refilling with dechlorinated

Fish should be checked more regularly for signs of disease in summer because infectious agents can multiply more quickly in warm weather.

Screening may also be required in very hot weather, to provide shade over the pond and so help to prevent pale-colored fish from suffering sunburn Canopies fashioned from bamboo matting on wooden supports are a popular
decorative option for this purpose


how to keep a pond from freezing without electricity How do you keep a pond from freezing?

The snow, ice, and surrounding earth will help insulate your pond from the frigid air. De-Icer:

If your pond threatens to freeze completely, you may need to install a de-icer to keep at least part of the water above freezing.

Your koi fish will need a few feet of liquid water in the pond throughout the winter.


how to keep a pond from freezing without electricity  What happens to the fish in a pond when it freezes?

It is true that some fish can spend the winter frozen in ice and come out swimming once the ice melts.

Not all fish get caught in the ice, of course. Ponds and lakes freeze from the top down, meaning that beneath the icy surface there is usually a layer of liquid water where fish swim

How deep does a koi pond need to be for the winter?

A pond for goldfish or water lilies need be only about 2 feet deep for zones 5 or greater.

Ponds built in colder areas may need more depth to keep the pond from freezing solid.

Ponds built for koi should be close to three feet or deeper to allow these larger fish enough space.

Posted on

(koi fish jewelry) symbolize good luck will make you lucky actually

koi fish jewelry symbolizes good luck will bring you luck and good fortune.

Koi Fish jewelry meaning in Japan is good fortune or luck they also are associated with perseverance in adversity and strength of purpose, the Koi fish symbolize good luck, abundance, and perseverance. Symbolic in Buddhism is to represent courage.koi fish jewelry Today the koi fish are considered to be symbolic of advancement materially and spiritually. That is why to bring you more luck wear a koi fish necklacekoi fish pendant and koi fish earrings.

According to Japanese legend, if a koi fish succeeded in climbing the falls at a point called Dragon Gate on the Yellow River, it would be transformed into a dragon. Based on that legend, it became a symbol of worldly aspiration and advancement.

Another legend states that the koi climb the waterfall bravely, and if they are caught, they face their death on the cutting board bravely like a samurai. In Japan, the word koi refers primarily to the wild variety. As a result, many of the country’s symbolic meanings for the fish refer to the wild variety instead of the fish species as a whole. One of the primary reasons the fish is symbolic in Japanese culture is because it is known for swimming upstream no matter what the conditions are. These fish are even said to swim up waterfalls. This is viewed as an absolute show of power because they will continue to swim upstream as if on a mission. They cannot be distracted or deterred by anything. Koi’s swimming downstream are considered bad luck.

koi fish yin yang koi fish jewelry symbolize Good fortune,Success,Prosperity,Longevity,Courage,Ambition,Perseverance